Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

post-62930-1242976502_thumb.jpgpost-62930-1242976502_thumb.jpgpost-62930-1242976347_thumb.jpghey all selling my r33 gtst ser 1.5 88 thousand ks cusco coil overs two week old 19 inch fpv rims brand new tyres blitz evryting frontmount exhaust pod full 4in dump pipe back good sterio subs n shit

nice tight lsd. wolf ed ecu high flow t28 makes two eighty ponys at the tyres on 11 pound. turbos new and at r d p the gimp there said will make well over three hundy at the tyres 15 16 psi. just didnt need n e more than whats there so left it. f*kll range of spares az well so if n e one needs n e thing let me know have most parts kits seats diffs mtrs etc?????? joel 0430540512. oh make an offer on the kar cheers its 95 model

post-62930-1242977574_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271269-r33-for-sale/
Share on other sites

post-62930-1243052469_thumb.jpgpost-62930-1243052469_thumb.jpg

what language is that written in?

what price range are we looking at here?

trades? also where are you located?

im semi iliterate. one finger typing n stuff. 14 k with heaps of parts rims whole spare kit spare lsd u know lots and lots of spares. it goes good az with more boost and an hour tuning will make two forty rwkws im on the gold coast brought kar from melborne and put the best bits i could find only 88 thousand ks the exhaust is the sik as 4 in all the way threw full adj coil overs the best u kan buy it haz hundy mill adjusment still kan b lower, will put brand new set of tyres all round az well if some one pay 14/ it makes 204kw at the rubber. blows away brand new ss and falcons xrt any way wat may u wana swap? have a spare motor toopost-62930-1243052240_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271269-r33-for-sale/#findComment-4612195
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...