Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was going to use them for my project car, but need the cash for other mods first...

Were off a porsche cayenne turbo and are made by brembo...

come with pair of calipers, and 99% new pads... take 353mm Discs...

You cannot get better brakes than this..

These are pretty much NEW! they have done under 300kms on the porsche...

They retail for around the $7-8k mark...

Looking for around the $1800 mark as i just need the cash...

Have the discs off the porsche as well... 353mm drilled rotors with a stud pattern of 5x120 i think... which is porsche only... but if u want them, they're yours... throw them in with the brakes...

The size of these things is stupid... would make an awesome addition to a powerful car...

Also, located in Capalaba, Brisbane. Prefer not to post, as these things are HEAVY!

Contact me on 0402.022.582 preferably by sms, if you're interested...

Thats also a 12" sub box in the pic... For size comparison

DSC001892.jpg

DSC00187.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271564-fs-porsche-brembo-6-piston-brakes/
Share on other sites

Sorry for the delay... net has been capped...

For those that requested... pics of the back of the brakes....

IMAGE_033.jpg

IMAGE_032.jpg

IMAGE_031.jpg

For those of you in another state... im not really looking to go through the drama of posting... rather cash in hand, etc.... much simpler and everybody is happy... been ripped off before with posting goods...

Nice Brakes :)

OS30GK - i don't think the process is hard, just the possibility of problems, missing items etc etc..

MYF70 :thumbsup: hi sam.

I see you round.

Posting with insurance and all should protect you sam.

Will consider posting interstate if the buyer agrees to transfer the $$ to my account, then once payment recieved, will send them... or COD at buyers expense... have been caught before using other methods... not negotiable...

postage to WA from here is around the $50 for calipers alone....not including insurance... well thats what aus post tells me

Owgasm: Not for a while mate... had the FTO off the road for 6 months while i get some 850cc injectors into it and a stronger up pipe.... (blew a hole outthe old one when we last hit the strip...)

Jap_Muscle:

Would not be direct bolt ons to any vehicle... The stud pattern is porsche only... calipers are huge and will require fitment.. was quoted $300 for fitment to my FTO... but that was just an over the phone guess... could be more, could be less...

These brakes are not for your run of the mill gtst.... these are made for high horsepower cars... anything under 300kws and they're overkill...

Edited by turbofto

really nice brakes mate. How large of wheels do I need?! Really want to see it on my 34. Anyone knows how to?

had been thinking to put porsche brake on my previous Audi TT. but too much brake force for that car.

btw, I guess they should be 5x112...Porsche, Merc, new Audi PCD

5x120 for BMW

Ah yeh, vincent, i think you're right... 5x112... i think i got mixed up...

Should fit under a set of 18s... forged 17s maybe....

If you need to find out any more specs, i think they came off a 2006 Porsche Cayenne Turbo

well i just finished my rb26/30 setup so im pumping about 400rwkw out of my gtt. so i do need th brakes.

if anyone can help me out on how to fit these babies that be great. im currently running 10x9.5 +22 Volk GTCs face 2

THanks

Edited by Jap_Muscle
well i just finished my rb26/30 setup so im pumping about 400rwkw out of my gtt. so i do need th brakes.

if anyone can help me out on how to fit these babies that be great. im currently running 10x9.5 +22 Volk GTCs face 2

THanks

these brakes will not fit on 18's unless u stick to 355mm rotors and under. i have the same brakes with 376mm rotors but my wheels are 19x10.5'

post-1798-1243941845_thumb.jpg

Edited by MR33
these brakes will not fit on 18's unless u stick to 355mm rotors and under. i have the same brakes with 376mm rotors but my wheels are 19x10.5'

Sorry wat I meant was I have 19x9.5 plus 22 offset

Would they fit?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...