Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thats the problem.

It stays rich with it on or off, it does not make a difference.

As far as i can tell o2(1) is ok

I would just like to know if o2(2) is supposed to cycle as well or remain constant.

Thanks.

Ah... sorry i misunderstood. No they are both supposed to change. You definatly have a dead 2nd o2 sensor.

Some widebands setups output a simulated narrowband output too. You might be able to wire that to the ecu instead of replacing your dead sensor.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272627-rb26-afr/page/2/#findComment-4637141
Share on other sites

I use the AEM uego wideband which i think has the output but i'm using the stock ecu. I only hooked up the pfc to read the O2 voltages (borrowed from a friend).

One other thing i noticed was when i gave it a quick rev to 2000rpm the air flow voltages will go up to about the same amount but AF2 will drop off before AF1, and will go to about 0.2v and then climb back to meet AF2 at about 0.9v where two of them remain steady.

The two air flows are clean and i am using the stock air box at the moment.

Could some one else give me their opinion on the O2(2) sensor remaining constant? And which one the pfc takes as the O2(2) sensor the front or the back?

Thanks again.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272627-rb26-afr/page/2/#findComment-4637830
Share on other sites

Yea already have that info. thanks anyways.

I also noticed from the manual the front o2 sensor suppose to cycle between 0-1v and the rear in P or N range 0v and other than P or N range 4-5v

So i guess i should be looking for a voltage fluctuation between 4-5v ????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272627-rb26-afr/page/2/#findComment-4639879
Share on other sites

Well changed th o2 sensor today using a rb25det sensor, it was a direct plug in for the rear sensor on r33 rb26 just the wire on the sensor is shorter so i had to reroute the harness...no biggie though.

Anyway my ratios now look as they should- Idle at 14.7-15.3 an when i hold it at 2000rpm it cycles between 14.7- 15.7

So i guess i would be looking forward to some improved fuel economy :D

Thanks for all the help guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272627-rb26-afr/page/2/#findComment-4641283
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
    • It's TWO steering wheels actually. 😛 one for each hand They are wheels, and they steer!
×
×
  • Create New...