Jump to content
SAU Community

Safc Ii + Z32 Afm, Buy One Or Buy Both.

NZM.031
 Share

Recommended Posts

NZM.031 Grand Master

NZM.031

Posted
Posted

hey guys,

im returning my r32 back to stock.

i bought the SAFC II brand new in 2005, i used it on my r33 for a few months, then put it back in the box, i used it for a brief period on my missus' 4AGE corolla for shits and giggles for a week or two, then back in the box, then dug it out again to put on the r32 to run the Z32 afm.. it is in perfect working condition, and the unit itself is immaculate, i have most of the manuals, and the original box somewhere (just moved so not sure where), however all can be found on the Apexi U.S. website.

i bought the Z32 afm and plug from CRD in Dec 08.. still have original box and receipt from CRD.. it is in new condition, and was mounted solid with a bracket, hasnt been flogging around.. comes with plug to suit.

$300 each or $500 for both. items located in East Maitland NSW, but can post ANYWHERE COMPLEMENTARY (thats for free)

DSC00075.jpg

DSC00074.jpg

DSC00071.jpg

DSC00073.jpg

cheers

Linton

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272814-safc-ii-z32-afm-buy-one-or-buy-both/
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
Japanese dino Rookie

Japanese dino

Posted
Posted

Call me in regards to the Apexi s-afc 0414 335 485

Regards

Gerry

hey guys,

im returning my r32 back to stock.

i bought the SAFC II brand new in 2005, i used it on my r33 for a few months, then put it back in the box, i used it for a brief period on my missus' 4AGE corolla for shits and giggles for a week or two, then back in the box, then dug it out again to put on the r32 to run the Z32 afm.. it is in perfect working condition, and the unit itself is immaculate, i have most of the manuals, and the original box somewhere (just moved so not sure where), however all can be found on the Apexi U.S. website.

i bought the Z32 afm and plug from CRD in Dec 08.. still have original box and receipt from CRD.. it is in new condition, and was mounted solid with a bracket, hasnt been flogging around.. comes with plug to suit.

$300 each or $500 for both. items located in East Maitland NSW, but can post ANYWHERE COMPLEMENTARY (thats for free)

DSC00075.jpg

DSC00074.jpg

DSC00071.jpg

DSC00073.jpg

cheers

Linton

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...