Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Noticed a bit of a problem with my car last night, and its been doing it a bit this morning. Basically with a constant very low throttle applied, the car appears a little stuttery...not massively, but i can feel something.

Its a bit hard to explain, but its basically feeling a little lumpy and not otherwise as smooth as it should be around 2500rpm and 5-10% THR (on my S-AFC) just cruising around at 60km/hr or so. On heavier acceleration its fine, at idle its pretty much fine, and if i foot to the floor it, it goes at its usual rocket pace with no problems. Its almost the is like a "gurgle" or choke in the exhaust - the sort of thing you get before a backfire.

So any suggestions?

Could it be timing?

Could it be a vacuum leak (doubt it, checked all that, building up boost fine)

Could it be S-AFC settings running to rich or something? (hasn't been tuned since my new 910 fuel pump)

Could it be spark plugs? although these were only changed around 5-8k ago

Could it be something like my accelerator cable? I do notice there is a bit of slack on it. Is that normal?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27375-problem-on-light-throttle/
Share on other sites

my first guess would be that ur safc might be tuned a little rich on lower rpms

mine was like that, was a little sluggish and felt like it wanted to go but couldnt till i hit boost

a tune fixed it right up, also fixed up the loss of pressure between gears somehow

try that first then go from there

remember ur car hasnt been tuned in a while and should be retuned every 2-3 months if it only has a safc

S-AFC helps a lot of things ;) although it will be less useful on a GTS, it may help it run a little smoother.

Think it could have been a bit of dodgy fuel (Caltex Gold out country way.. is that only 94RON ? ), seems to be running a lot better today, and i've still only got fairly low octane stuff in there. Its tuned for 98RON and hard use, probably a good idea to get it back on the dyno like Kami was saying and get it retuned.

I also tightened/checked all the vacuum points, so it may have been that too.

I too get some splutter low down, under medium throttle. Im putting it down to my SAFC settings. It was only ever tuned on full throttle. So when i get some time (very soon) im hiring a dyno for an hour, ($50) and going to try and squeeze a little more out of her plus do some lighter throttle testings.

You raise an interesting point. That is the big problem with dyno tuning I think. A lot of it is just done to get the highest peak power reading, which isn't necessarily good for daily driving (or in fact most driving, even on the strip or track). Some tuners are more realistic and realise you're not going to be running at full boost all the time, and tune for more across the range.

I am a believer that dyno tuning is useful to sort some things out, but it also needs a good road tune as well to tidy things up. After all, you drive on the road, not a dyno!

I asked about the low throttle settings and they said nah they are ok. I noticed at light throttle the A/F ratio was 14.2 whilst on the dyno. To me this is still rich. I think 14.7 is optimum on light throttle.

Anyway, i will throw it on a dyno and do the changes myself, may pick up some economy too.;)

guys i *always* get mine tuned on the road as it is just more realistic

also i get mine tuned on bout 1/3 - 1/2 throttle

it boosts up so much better - and i still get full boost

there is no need for full throttle imho

btw gordo if u want it retuned for the street it will cost ya bout $20 ;)

but melb is about 9% difference in the way that the environment is compared to here

still a tune up here should be good for down there too :)

Originally posted by predator666

Noticed a bit of a problem with my car last night, and its been doing it a bit this morning. Basically with a constant very low throttle applied, the car appears a little stuttery...not massively, but i can feel something.

Its a bit hard to explain, but its basically feeling a little lumpy and not otherwise as smooth as it should be around 2500rpm and 5-10% THR (on my S-AFC) just cruising around at 60km/hr or so. On heavier acceleration its fine, at idle its pretty much fine, and if i foot to the floor it, it goes at its usual rocket pace with no problems. Its almost the is like a "gurgle" or choke in the exhaust - the sort of thing you get before a backfire.  

So any suggestions?  

Could it be timing?

Could it be a vacuum leak (doubt it, checked all that, building up boost fine)

Could it be S-AFC settings running to rich or something? (hasn't been tuned since my new 910 fuel pump)

Could it be spark plugs? although these were only changed around 5-8k ago

Could it be something like my accelerator cable? I do notice there is a bit of slack on it. Is that normal?

Well there,I have exactly the same problem and my mechanic thinks I am wierd. I just had my standard fuel pump replaced with a 800 horsepower bosch unit, and its doing what yours does. More so when its cold. They put the car on dyno when warm and they said all the mixtures are fine etc. New plugs, cleaned injectors, cleaned fuel lines, new fuel filter, cleaned fuel rail, cant be the fuel system. I am taking it in wednesday night, returning thursday morning and taking them for a drive to show them so they dont think I'm mad. Some others here have advised they check the throttle position etc and see if that helps.

I'll let you know how it goes.

Paul

Dont bother setting any low throttle mapping on the SAFC. The ECU simply relearns around it to maintain the stoich AFRs. Trust me i've tried... You can even wind in 30% richer at a cruising rpm and within 10 seconds its back to stoich AFR by looking at the o2 output...

I reckon you should get your injectors etc checked out first. Just leave the low thr map empty.

The ECU runs closed loop all the time, except for when you got your foot flat to the floor above ~3000rpm. Its constantly recorrecting its sensor parameters to stay at stoich AFR so by trying to fool it with the SAFC inside of closed loop operation is futile.

You shouldnt need an aftermarket comp to fix these problems. Its most likely a vacuum leak, very dirty throttle body, clogged PVC, leaky pipes, malfunctioning EGR/Canister control, plugs etc etc. The list could go on. I suggest you get ur hands on a workshop manual and try and diagnose a few things...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...