Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, i know your probably sick of seeing this car for sale but i have decided its time for a change. The car is in pretty good condition for its age and i have recently spent BIG $$$ on it. it is a mechanics car and it is pretty well stock bar the turbo back exhaust and the front mount. The car only has 2 problems that i havent had time to address yet ant that is a slight oil leak from the off side rear cressent seal (very minor) and the 2nd gear syncro is a little noisey on gear change from time to time. other than that and the usual things u find on a second hand car (small scratches and dings) the car is in great shape. anyway here are the details.

NISSAN R33 GTS-T

RB25DET

128,xxx km's

Rego Till 14/1/2010

Reason for Sale: Want to Buy a GTR

All items with NEW have all been Fitted/Replaced in the Past Month

MODIFICATIONS:

  • NEW Tune Agent Radius (Castor) Rods
  • NEW 3" Split Dump Pipe
  • NEW 3" Catco High-Flow Catalytic Converter and Gaskets
  • NEW DBA 4000 Slotted Front Disc Rotors
  • NEW Exedy Sport Tuff Super Heavy Duty Clutch Kit Fitted With Genuine Nissan Pilot Bearing
  • NEW Flywheel
  • NEW Reconditioned & Modified Cam Covers (Being Fitted Soon)
  • NEW Reworked & Modified Breather System All with new Speed-Flow fittings and Push-Lock Hose (Being Fitted Soon)
  • NEW Silicone Pipe Work Under Bonnet
  • NEW Heavy Duty Shock absorbers
  • NEW Bendix Ultimate Pads
  • NEW Gate Racing Hose Used on Power Steering
  • NEW Cam Cover Gaskets ( Being Fitted Soon)


  • Modified Factory BOV
  • Cooling Pro (Just Jap) Front-mount Intercooler
  • 3" Cat Back
  • Ultra Turbo Timer
  • Boost Gauge

ACCESSORIES:

  • NEW Driving Lights
  • Alarm & Immobilizer
  • Custom Tow bar
  • Complete Pioneer Stereo including Splits In Front, 2-ways in Rear Shelf and 800watt Mono Block And Sub-Woofer In Boot

MAINTENANCE:

  • Regularly Serviced Every 5,000km approx – Using Motul Synthetic Oil and K&N oil filter
  • Major Service Carried Out @ 100,000km on the dot – Timing belt replaced with GATES RACING Timing belt, NEW Genuine Nissan Water Pump, Replaced Plugs with NGK Spark Plugs. All Fluids Changed.
  • NEW Heavy Duty Shock absorbers
  • NEW Bendix Ultimate Pads
  • NEW Gate Racing Hose Used on Power Steering
  • NEW Cam Cover Gaskets ( Being Fitted Soon)

LUBE & FLUID LIST:

  • ENGINE OIL – Motul Turbo Light Synthetic
  • GEARBOX OIL – Nulon Synthetic Gear Oil (New)
  • DIFF OIL – Castrol LSX 90
  • P/ STEER – Castrol Dextron III
  • COOLANT – Nulon Long Life Coolant (RED)

SHORT COMMENTS:

This car has been a pleasure to drive and whilst I have owned it, it has never let me down. The car is excellent for towing and being a mechanic it is looked after & well maintained. This sale is regretful and if circumstances were different I would not be selling it but I can't afford to have another car and keep this. So I need to sell it. I Also Have a BIG Holset Turbo that comes with the car (Not Fitted).

Asking price is $16,000 (Cash Only) However i am flexable

I also have a Sea-Doo Jet-Ski with a NEW Re-Built jet unit (installed before Christmas Last Year) on trailer both with Rego till March 2010 + Accessories

However i am still undecided about selling jetski and i will only sell it with the car if the right offer comes my way.

For all Enquiries Contact:

Dave - Mobile #: 0433-750-636

Note: Any deposits on car/Jet-Ski will not be refunded if sale falls through due I have to change custom plates for standard plates and that takes time and money.[/size]

NO TIME WASTERS, TYRE KICKERS OR LOW BALLERS PLEASE!!! SERIOUSLY INTERESTED BUYERS ONLY!!! THIS IS A CASH ONLY SALE!

Edited by MR FLWLSS

i will post pics soon. i can pm some of the old pics of the car and ski. there about a year old. i have thought about it and come up with a price for the jetski and car together. $21,000 for the seadoo and the skyline. if anyone is interested let me know via pm or sms

here are some pics, the pics of the car are not recent, will post more current pics soon but the only thing different is the rims were swaped for the factory nissan alloys. the reason for this is as the car is my daily driver the tyres are cheaper for the factory alloys.

post-40206-1245310146_thumb.jpg

post-40206-1245310176_thumb.jpg

post-40206-1245310286_thumb.jpg

Edited by MR FLWLSS

sorry guys i also forgot to mention that the wheels pictured also come with the car but are not fitted as they need tyres

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...