Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25 > Rb26 (overhaul, And Reliability Modifications)

TRD0524

By TRD0524,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

TRD0524 Newbie

TRD0524

Posted
Posted

Helping a friend with a blown RB25 (R33 Skyline GTS-T) build his engine to be reliable. I have done a bit of searching around on these topics, none with direct answers though. His engine died of oil starvation and toasted the bearings.

He is going to use the RB26 crank, forged rods, pistons, rod bolts, Mahle Clevite bearings, etc, and machining the block to fit.

I know the RB25 and RB26 oil pan's are different. Is there any way to baffle up the RB25 oil pan like we can for the RB26s?, or solutions for that?

Oiling issues: As far as i know, i hear that either the Reimax, Tomei or HKS oil pumps are the MOST reliable out of the wet sump solutions. I know few people use the HKS and Tomei pumps with good results on moderate street/track cars. How about the Reimax Oil pump? Anyone with experiences on that?

http://www.reimax.co.jp/pages/products/lower-area/index.html

I know Reimax makes a BIG GEAR upgrade for the N1 oil pumps as well?

05.jpg

From what i know, when he uses an RB26 crank, he is open to use any of the RB26 oil pump upgrades as well. Is there anything else that would be need to be done to make it fit?

Oil drainback issues: Would an RB26 head oil drain return work with an RB25DET?

He wants to stick with the RB25, so can anyone with experiences with this engine give me some ideas so i can advice him? I am a little bit more familiar with the 26s, not so much with the 20s or 25s.

Any constructive criticism, or help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted
Helping a friend with a blown RB25 (R33 Skyline GTS-T) build his engine to be reliable. I have done a bit of searching around on these topics, none with direct answers though. His engine died of oil starvation and toasted the bearings.

He is going to use the RB26 crank, forged rods, pistons, rod bolts, Mahle Clevite bearings, etc, and machining the block to fit.

I know the RB25 and RB26 oil pan's are different. Is there any way to baffle up the RB25 oil pan like we can for the RB26s?, or solutions for that?

Oiling issues: As far as i know, i hear that either the Reimax, Tomei or HKS oil pumps are the MOST reliable out of the wet sump solutions. I know few people use the HKS and Tomei pumps with good results on moderate street/track cars. How about the Reimax Oil pump? Anyone with experiences on that?

http://www.reimax.co.jp/pages/products/lower-area/index.html

I know Reimax makes a BIG GEAR upgrade for the N1 oil pumps as well?

05.jpg

From what i know, when he uses an RB26 crank, he is open to use any of the RB26 oil pump upgrades as well. Is there anything else that would be need to be done to make it fit?

Oil drainback issues: Would an RB26 head oil drain return work with an RB25DET?

He wants to stick with the RB25, so can anyone with experiences with this engine give me some ideas so i can advice him? I am a little bit more familiar with the 26s, not so much with the 20s or 25s.

Any constructive criticism, or help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Use a Nitto pump...German engineering and cheaper than the Jap pumps. Im running a group buy for them at the moment for $1250 delivered.

Rear oil drain is not needed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sinn3r
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By sinn3r · Posted

      Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • Kinkstaah
      Blue slip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • GTSBoy
      Best place to order Authetic R32 Parts in Japan

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • GTSBoy
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue slip

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...