Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i am new for the car audio things. it is my first system, not too sure how good it works. still need to buy a pair of front speaker. EVERYTHING is not been installed.

car: R33 GTS-T

have Kicker ZX750.1 amp 1 chanel mono

Kicker DUAL 2*CVR Subwoofer 1600watts max

Kicker DS6930 rear speaker

Kenwood 2 din CD player, not too sure the model.

i need a suggestion for front speaker choosing, if any pro here can help.

for the amp, i think it only support sub. do i need another amp to support speakers?

not too sure how much the installation will cost as well.

THX guys.

any answer would help for me.

in answer to your question,

yes your amp is a monoblock made to power your subwoofer

it will not run your front speakers

no, you dont need an amp to run the speakers, they can be connected to the headunit and work fine.

Your question is as hard to answer as how long is a piece of string?

you havent told us much about what your looking for?

budget, sound quality?? what?

The installation on the equipment you have is absolutley simple. you should not spend a cent on it, have a look on these forums or possibly others for guides on how to install stereo equipment, when i got my first car and stereo i was quoted over $300 from jb for a simple car install, subs speakers amps hu etc.

It took me under 2 hours for the first time with no guides or prior expeerience, everything is pretty much simple as yours is only a basic system(so far)

I think any options you choose your system will sound great, kickers are great and you seem to have subwoofers and an amplifieer that will absolutley shake your car!

How much do you want to spend... That is the question.

I would recommend running a second amp for the front speakers, if you don't the sub will drown out everything else, as head units only provide 50w max.

If you give us a budget we can recommend some equipment

THX GUYS,

sorry for my language, cus English is not my first language, i didn't explan everything clearly.

i don't want spend too much on audio. budget would be $1500, paid 800 already for those used kicker things but good condition.

what i am looking for was just simplely want nice and clear sound with strong bass response.

i found some cars with nice sub, but hardly to hear speakers which i don't like at all. i would like the sound be strong and clear with nice balance between splits and subs.

as NATHO 33 said, it cost $300 for the installation in JB. i will do some DIY there. got some AMP kit, get back seat removed, and go from there.

THX FOR EVERYONE. got some ideas now.

cheers

THX GUYS,

sorry for my language, cus English is not my first language, i didn't explan everything clearly.

i don't want spend too much on audio. budget would be $1500, paid 800 already for those used kicker things but good condition.

what i am looking for was just simplely want nice and clear sound with strong bass response.

i found some cars with nice sub, but hardly to hear speakers which i don't like at all. i would like the sound be strong and clear with nice balance between splits and subs.

as NATHO 33 said, it cost $300 for the installation in JB. i will do some DIY there. got some AMP kit, get back seat removed, and go from there.

THX FOR EVERYONE. got some ideas now.

cheers

You've already got a woofer why do you want more bass response? you might as well get 6.5" splits of some sort with tweeters and increase treble response so that you get clarity instead of unnecessary/excess bass

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Does anyone sell a pipe that's made to go from the Greddy FMIC kit for ECR33 (RB25DET) to the Greddy intake manifold? 
    • Not that I know from experience, but in theory you'd want your gate spring to be as close to target pressure as possible, so you'd go with the higher gate spring?
    • Before I commit to it as I already have the wastegate off the car, would you change it to the 9psi spring instead of the 12, or whack it back on now and try your suggestion?   Edit: Actually I might just swap the spring and see what the logs say after another few pulls, as we know it's still spiking without the Mac valve in the picture so I need more data without the Mac valve trying to combat the issue.
    • Sounds good Hmm suppose the main thing is, how much do you care about this car? The filler doesn't make for a very good water barrier lol. If there was a tiny little bit of rust forming now, that in 3 to 5 years time becomes obvious under the paint (starts to bubble up), would it bother you? 
    • I already have the ability to datalog the voltage... what I can't do is correlate it to what the gauge is showing when I'm looking at the data at a later date. Or something like this. Except getting the oil to 125C+ involves me going 200+kmh at the track so you can imagine this is a little tricky unless I do something like note what the voltage is when I am at the top of 5th gear so I have a point to reference on. Drove car today. O2 still reading richer because hopefully not a leak instead of massive restriction I've introduced. Car really doesn't sound like a LS. It's quite strange. Pulled a bit of fuel out up top. This does potentially explain why my spark plugs looked like the car was running pretty over-rich. If I was tuning it to a ~12.7 which in reality was far richer than that in the past. It will be handy to have the dyno WB to compare my WB to to compare notes that's for sure. At this point I'm happy to just sit in the passenger seat and tune the thing given I've got about 7 million hours on the platform lol.
×
×
  • Create New...