Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

well had my new car two weeks now, loving it so far.

anywho my car came with the 34 gtt wheels on it, so today i unplugged my sub to see what spare wheel i had.

check the wheel, put the subs back in the boot, wired them up and now nothing.

also, the sound system still works but just no subs.

i dunno much about the sound system but its a cadence (or somthing) amy that is powering 2 JVC subs and for some reason they decided not to work.

i manage to ellinimate the following possible causes:

1: wires touching (if they did at any point there was no power running through the sound system/car)

2: wrong wires in wrong connections (dont know much about sound systems but i remember what wire connected where, but it didnt work, tried change the wires to the terminals but still nothing, hook it back up the way i rememberd undoing them but still nothing.)

there is power to the amplifier, and when i turn the key to the first notch that powers only the clock and sound system, i get one doof from the subs but then nothing with music going.

can anyone help me?! its driving me nuts!!!!

Edited by buckets
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276883-need-some-help-all-out-of-ideas/
Share on other sites

If u get a "doof" initially when you turn it on, id definatley say theres wires touching eachother and its shorting out.

If you put the volume level down low enough, there shouldnt be enough current to short it out so try turning it on with the sound low and see if the subs work. If they work, its wires making contact where they shouldnt.

Hope this helps, good luck

If u get a "doof" initially when you turn it on, id definatley say theres wires touching eachother and its shorting out.

If you put the volume level down low enough, there shouldnt be enough current to short it out so try turning it on with the sound low and see if the subs work. If they work, its wires making contact where they shouldnt.

Hope this helps, good luck

hey man, gave it a go

didnt work.

i also noticed that the doof at the start looks like the subs going in and out.

like its a doof before the music starts, subs flow in and out couple of times (not a loud doof) but then no noise once music is on

If u get a "doof" initially when you turn it on, id definatley say theres wires touching eachother and its shorting out.

If you put the volume level down low enough, there shouldnt be enough current to short it out so try turning it on with the sound low and see if the subs work. If they work, its wires making contact where they shouldnt.

Hope this helps, good luck

hey man, gave it a go

didnt work.

i also noticed that the doof at the start looks like the subs going in and out.

like its a doof before the music starts, subs flow in and out couple of times (not a loud doof) but then no noise once music is on

Ahh tht sucks, sorry mate not much else i can think of without acctually seeing it, im not exactly a guru on the subject anyways, i just know the basics.

Ill re-post if i can think of anything else but untill then, maybe get a mate to hook their sub up to the amp and see what happens, then you know if its the subs or the amp.

Edited by Joe_89

hey guys

today i manage to check the wiring, wiring inside the sub and the amp's fuse.

all fine.

so no idea what is wrong now, also worked out i have a monoblock if that changes.

any ideas would be great, will check connection to head unit tomorrow

Do you get a light on the amp when it's on? check to see if theres a key anywhere e.g. green for OK red for protect mode.

Since you're getting the initial "doof" when the amp turns on it's getting power, if the amp stays on it's possible the RCA leads from the head unit have been knocked out. It's also possible moving everything around you've changed the AMP from low to high crossover, check on the amp for such a switch it should be in the low position for subs.

hey guys

well today i was able to get to the back of my headunit, all connections were fine along with RCA connections.

whilist i had the headunit out, i changed my headunits (one in my old car was better)

did all the wirering and presto, the subs now work!

no idea how but, thinking RCA connections in back of headunit were dodgey??

many thanks to leon for all his advice, top bloke! :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This looks great! Awesome to have the 5 speed with an LSD in this. The Recaro's look like SR2's or SR3's. It's a shame they've been retrimmed as they would have looked sweet in their original colours. I think I'd want my agent to be a little more up front and informative too. I've never imported but I reckon it would make me a little nervous, so the more info the better.
    • Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
×
×
  • Create New...