Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does anyone know what sort of nut i am meant to use to attach my front bar to the body? And where i can get them from?

Just going through the process of fixing up some of the things the previous owner did, and i noticed he lost a bolt and nut from the front bar so it wobbles around and looks quite flimsy. I would use one of the other nuts as an example, but i cant get them out so i dunno what they look like.

Cheers for any help,

Martin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278891-captive-nut/
Share on other sites

so front bar to the guard?

cant you use a regular bolt with a lock nut?

havent pulled apart an r34 yet, so hard to know on your model specifically

Well it could work, except i cant get my hand or a tool in to where the nut goes to hold it and stop it turning, which i assume would be why they used captive nuts in the first place

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278891-captive-nut/#findComment-4714898
Share on other sites

well - then you could use a nutsert/rivnut but that will only work of the hole in the guard is round, not square like on the 33's

best bet is to find someone wrecking a 34 and see if you can get the "nut" from the guard

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278891-captive-nut/#findComment-4715491
Share on other sites

No one knows?

[/quote

see the attached pic for guidance

if its the really hard to get at one 1/2 way along side of bar its about $1-60 from your local Nissan dealer - there is no nut just a phillips head screw going straight into a plastic connector that is a one-way special fit into a hole in the metal part of the guard- in some cases (in my R34) the screw is angled in the connector so as to pull the bar in correct alignment as it is screwed in - to remove it should unscrew ok unless the plastic has been stripped or somone has put in a makeshift non-standard repair - your bar should be closely like the one in the pic - if necessary to try to get enough access undo the last connector (closest to wheel opening) again this is a screw straight into plastic fitting, and just pull the guard out it flexes a fair bit - the engine/underbody fairing is a bloody nuisance so you will need to loosen and try to push it aside also if possible

post-57849-1247700589_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/278891-captive-nut/#findComment-4717270
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You know how your car rolled through a fence in your last jacking escapade? Scissor jacks increase the likely hood of that sort of thing happening immensely!
    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
×
×
  • Create New...