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Hi all :P

i've searched the rectum out of this one, both on here and regular google, but haven't come up with anything... at all...

i went to do a coolant flush on the stag yesterday and i broke that STUPID plastic bung on the bottom of the rad. it's still stuck in there and i think i have buckleys of getting it out, outside of drilling it out and chopping it into little (satisfying) pieces.

is there an alternative to this? the coolant's looking a bit murky so i'd like to get on to this one pretty quick...

i was hoping that maybe there'd be a tap available for it, like with the replacement for the sump?

cheers guys :D

josh

p.s has anyone else had this problem?

Edited by pyro-ns
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yeah, that's my alternative, but i've gotta take the under engine "diffuser" off to get to it. i'm a lazy bastard and i enjoy a bit of destruction, so i was hoping to drill the guts out of that bung and find something better :P

there'll most likely be some sludge in the bottom of the rad too... was hoping to get it all out.

btw, on the neo's, that screw off to the left of the cowling, is that a bleed point for the coolant system?

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I had the same thing happen once on my subaru daily. I was lucky because i managed to jam a largeish flathead in there and with enough force screw out what was left of the bung without damaging the thread. Then i just replaced it with a normal bolt with a bit of thread tape wrapped around it to prevent leaks. Sure it means i need a spanner to get it out now but it doesn't leak and i haven't had any problems since! :P Just have to be careful not to over tighten it.

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hmmmm, fair enough. i haven't got to munching the thread yet, lol. i've snapped the bit that your screwdriver actually goes into....

this one goes in the shit basket with the top facing manifold, lol.

cheers mate :D

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hmmmm, fair enough. i haven't got to munching the thread yet, lol. i've snapped the bit that your screwdriver actually goes into....

this one goes in the shit basket with the top facing manifold, lol.

cheers mate :laugh:

Dont be lazy :laugh: take radiator out go get the core cleaned out rodded $100 at radiator joint. I would say if your radiator is murgy sludgy..... the rest of radiator is full of crap and stag radiators are only 1 core(other sports cars 3core) so you want it cleaned properly not just flushed otherwise come summer you risk blowing head and trust me you dont want to fix head $$$$$$$$ :bunny: . especially if your car is modded front mount etc. blocks cooling air trust me the cooling system on rb25 is not something you want to skimp on!!! and dont forget to bleed cooling system, bleeder nut located between inlet manifold and rocker cover.All i am trying to do is save stag owners money in the long run :P
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you raise a good point.... the car's still a bog stocker at the moment and we're still babying it until we can get the gearbox serviced and all the tranny fluids flushed and replaced.

tbh, i'd rather sink $100 into a better radiator, lol. i've just gotta figure out where i'd go from here. i'm assuming the 33 rad is an upgrade? maybe just a nore hardcore version of that?

edit:

a triple core 40mm alloy rad from just jap without the gay bung system!!!! :PBJ:

Edited by pyro-ns
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you raise a good point.... the car's still a bog stocker at the moment and we're still babying it until we can get the gearbox serviced and all the tranny fluids flushed and replaced.

tbh, i'd rather sink $100 into a better radiator, lol. i've just gotta figure out where i'd go from here. i'm assuming the 33 rad is an upgrade? maybe just a nore hardcore version of that?

edit:

a triple core 40mm alloy rad from just jap without the gay bung system!!!! :PBJ:

r33 radiator is exactly the same so no upgrade. but bigger ally radiator for r33 will fit no probs and work well . but if your car is auto you will need an extra trans cooler. Stock radiator works fine when not full of shit. My car was not running hot but got radiator cleaned out and new top tank and cap for $150 sweet . the radiator guy told me it was 50% blocked! The main prob is in japan they are reluctant to put coolant in cars.Removing radiator only requires 10mm spanner and large pliers 4 the hose clamps. there are no bottom bolts just 2 top 1's and and 2 self tappers 4 the shroud. would not worry about the bung to much as long as it does not leak.Replace hose clamps with better 1's(screw driver type) then it will only take 30 secs to dump fluid the next time. piss that bottom tray of as it only gets in the way. takeing radiator out is only a 5 min job!!! Best o luck :laugh:
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