Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Howdy people. I got my heart set on an R31 for numerous reasons but above all it looks mean.

I'm looking for information about the car like what I should be looking for when I go to purchase one?

also things like fuel economy.. and what should i be looking at paying for insurance? i'm 19 and on my p's.

I believe my gran use to have one but it had the rectangle taillights, not the stove top(?) ones. sold it for 2k six years ago. Is this the same car?

Thanks all.

edit: don't hate me, i don't know how this forum works.

Edited by kayOne
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281588-i-know-nothing-r31/
Share on other sites

Howdy people. I got my heart set on an R31 for numerous reasons but above all it looks mean.

I'm looking for information about the car like what I should be looking for when I go to purchase one?

Hi,

Just my own opinion:

  • "Low kms" (up to 240000, but the lower the better)
  • few modifications
  • straight panels - and all the same colour  :happy:
  • minimal rust
  • good wheels and tyres
  • roadworthy certificate

Perhaps you can post some specifics about what you're looking for: auto/manual, sedan/wagon. Also, if unsure, it's a good idea to have a mechanic check out the car for you.

good luck,

JohnH

Thanks, that's what I was looking for.

I only got an auto license, and I'm looking for a sedan. What's fuel economy like and is insurance high for these cars?

I just found this on the forum too and I'm putting it here so I can find it later:

GX - (Base Model with Pwr steer std)

Executive - (Basically a GX with A/C and Auto std)

GXE - better cloth trim, A/C standard

Silhouette - "sports" model - alloys, better seats, LSD. Two tone Paint, trip computer, boot lid spoiler etc.

TI - Top line - loses the spoiler, two tone paint and LSD in favour of cruise control, power windows and velour trim.

Edited by kayOne

Insurance shouldn't be too bad for an unmodified auto sedan compared to other cars. The fuel economy will be a bit sad compared to modern cars, but not awful.

Im no R31 expert, but general rules for checking out cheap and cheerful cars are:

- Look really carefully for rust, e.g. under the bonnet, on the underside of the doors etc.

- Look for oil that is leaking from the engine. The cleaner the better.

- Check the amount/color of the exhaust smoke as a mate revs the car. A little blue puff as you turn the key is ok, but it should clear immediately.

- Bounce the thing like crazy on its springs and see how long the car takes to settle. It shouldn't bob up and down several times before coming to rest.

- Look at the gap between the panels. An uneven gap hints at a previous smash.

- Stick your head under the car and study the rubbery bits. No cracks is good news.

- Look for matching/good tread on all four tires. Uneven tire wear is a bit of a worry.

- Look at the previous owner. Buying grandpa's beloved car is a much better idea than buying off some dodgey hoon.

Also, think about getting RACV total care or something similar. Lots of free towing and roadside repairs if things do go wrong (which is pretty likely) in the first year.

Good luck!

Thanks, that's what I was looking for.

I only got an auto license, and I'm looking for a sedan. What's fuel economy like and is insurance high for these cars?

Someone will have to check this but I think they require premium unleaded fuel. (I've got an R30 that runs on unleaded). Economy depends on engine size and driving style.

You can check insurance costs by doing an online quote with any of the major insurance companies. Age/experience is a big factor so there are "large" excesses that apply to claims if you're young or has a licence for less than two years. Cheapest option is "third party" or "third party, fire and theft". You should at least get "third party" insurance. For my (older) car with (older) driver, third party insurance is around $180.

As well as this forum, you might find a car and extra advice here.

cheers,

JohnH

You will find an auto Ti amongst the 'gangsta' and 'dorifto cops' here --->http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?board=26.0

and for all you technical data and stuff

http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?title=Main_Page

and finally (good info here)

http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?title=Buying_guide

Ive been around a few R31's built a few RB30e+t etc, and for what you pay for them these days you really cant go wrong.

the pick of the bunch would be a white Ti with grey trim, white cos it dont fade and easy to repair, and grey trim cos the brown looks like shit, literally.... plus the Ti has better sound deadening, better stereo, better brakes, and all electrics ast you previosuly stated. easily found from $1000 to $3000 for a nice one, could pay up to $5000 for one all modified and possibly turboed

the sillhoette (or however its spelt) is a nice ride too, does feel sportier

what town/state are you in and I might be able to help source a good example for you

and be careful, as they are known to hoons and 'drift heads' and 'fuuly sik skidz bro' type people, so there are MANY thrashed and trashed vehicles out there (good for parting out and getting repair panels off etc!)

The RB30e is one of the toughest engines nissan ever made, im pretty sure the blocks were made in dandynong vic with australias high quality metals back in the eighties.....

the only reason i dont own one is I have an R30 (the version beforehand) and it handles better than an R31 due to the R30's independant rear suspension, the Australian R21's have live axel rear end... similar to a hilux (very strong, good for towing)

yea good luck mate.

best bet for all your info is www.r31skylineclub.com

and get a mechanic to go over it.

but some bad points i have found

hand brake is shit

brakes only good for light street use (solved by R33gtst brake up grade)

to many cheep rip off parts for sale these days.

oh here is the link to my old 31 and the new one

http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=122545.0 new project

http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=58063.0 old one

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...