Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys and gals,

About 9 months i got my baby, 1 of 2 dream cars, an r33 gtr (others a ford gt40... yeah i kow i can dream) :) anywho after a couple of months i found that she'd misfire at around 5k under max boost at stock, so after savng abit i took her to c-red and forked out abit for a haltech cpu and tune and it seemed to fix it, turns out it was missing the air filter plug thing and only one of my 02 sensors was working... Feeling confident i was fixed they bumped it up to 14psi on stock turbos and a remap. Dyno'd at 340 atrw:)

Noticed around a couple of months later that she was doing it agan, 5k under boost, mainly 2/3rd gear, nice jerk:( did a bit of study and found that the coilpacks can be a good cause of the problem, so i bit the bullet and got the mighty splitfres, cant go cheap on these beasts:D

Anyway today after the install drivin down row, changed from first to second, hit 5k again and to my dismay she jerked... WTF could it be, and it always seems to be at the 5k mark...

Things runnin through my mind:

- spark plug gaps

- too much boost on stock turbos

- too much exhaust gas for the stock exhaust...

Does anyone have any experience in fixing this and co0uld possibly point me in the right direction??

Edited by gunns
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281839-4000-and-still-frustrated-help/
Share on other sites

an r33 gtr (others a ford gt40... yeah i kow i can dream)
Feeling confident i was fixed they bumped it up to 14psi on stock turbos and a remap. Dyno'd at 340 atrw;)

Rears? or alls? :) ..... GTR .....

I'll assume you've read this.

What kind of "jerk", like missfire, or like, broken nose over the steering wheel, blood pissing out everywhere, and call your mother because tears are running down your face ??

Could be a bad alty (only ever had one in all my cars, started hessitating occasionally a higher rpms, then more frequently, then at lower rpms, then finally gave in)

Could be alot of things, just depends on what exactly is happening at that 5k RPM mark, could be crank angle sensor, air, fuel, spark, ECU

ah at the rears, c-red have only got a rwd dyno.

Haha jerk as in missfire, bout a split second of nothing then it picks up again and keeps goin good right up to 8k with no probs. i have yet to have any problems below or above 5k, seems to be very specific. i get the spark plugs changed every service, 5-10k's so i can cross them off. i just read another thread similar to this (gotta love the search functon) where they were mentionin the wiring loom. I might give the mechs a ring tomoz and see what they think, but i think a loom might be the next on the hit list.

Ta for the quick reply

Wiring looms from the ignitor box to the coil packs is a common fault, because they're inside the valley cover and prone to heat. They usually run OK until you try to move them and they go crunch, then they're f**ked. Same with the ignitor box itself, sitting on top of the cover doesnt help a great deal, alot of people mount them onto the firewall.

Couldnt find any wreckers around my work in Welshpool that had any for me because theyre such a common f**kup, you can order them from JustJap, SlidingPerformance, maybe eBay, etc... or let a mechanic stretch your ass for it.

Wicked as, so from the sounds of it, wiring loom or ignitor box, or cas if im unlucky. im not mech savy so unforunatley so wont be able to checkthis for myself, sounds like ass stratching FTL :-(

I guess itwas a bit noob to think that going splitfires woud the ducks nuts and just magcally fix it

Im just over in Swan View if you ever need a helping hand mate.

Splitfires might be a setback now, but when the problem is fixed, you'll notice a difference for sure.

Ignitor box will be cheap as, wreckers might have an ignition loom (they do, just as soon as they arrive they sometimes sell out quickly), and theyre pretty cheap too.

Does anyone have any experience in fixing this and co0uld possibly point me in the right direction??

Fixing what ?? Most replys here are just wild stab in the dark .. go look in the workshop thread and visit the 1 closest to you

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...