Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Greenstuffs are great, and the slotted discs would be good too.

They wear the pads a bit quicker but apparently bite better and have less fade.

The cross drilled...........Mmmmmm, I 'heard' that DBA rotors that are cross drilled aren't reckomended for track work cause they have been know to crack between the drill holes.

Cool, so maybe EBC Greenstuff pads and DBA slotted rotors. Has anyone had any experience with the other types of EBC pad ? The car will be used mainly for everyday, however I can see in the near future that it will be visiting the track alot more often. Would any other color EBC pad suit this use better than Green ?

Guest Miguel

I would recommend RaceBrakes pads. I've currently got DBA cross-drilled brakes and RaceBrakes RB74 pads and could not be happier with them. The car has seen some track work with that set up too, even though it is a bit lighter than a skyline, I haven't had any problems with cracking. But for you, I'd probly say slotted discs, just to be safe

There's been some talk on PF and SDU ( I think) of the DBA cross drilled rotors cracking. They don't even do them for the GT-R anymore.

I was told by a guy that knows a fair bit about this stuff that slotted rotors are only really worth it for race cars when new pads are applied during a race.

The pads give off vapours when they are getting bedded in and the slots minimise the "hovercraft" effect of the gasses being trapped between the pad and disc. Not a prob for a street car, but a big thing during a race.

I will probably go with non-slotted when I get around to it. Even (shock, horror!) Nissan originals maybe! :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...