PranK

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Everything posted by PranK

  1. Hi All, SAU's first attempt at crowd sourcing a solution. This problem is two fold - we have two distinct issues but both can be addressed together with a good solution. Problem 1; Wanted To Buy section. It sits below all other For Sale sections and people end up posting in the For Sale section. How can we promote the use of the WTB section and make it easy to use for all? My ideas (just ideas, not right or wrong) include; Allowing WTB in For Sale. This will water down the actual FS posts. Having WTB as a sub section of For Sale (moving it to a link above the FS section).This, but with a 'latest 5 posts' displayed in For Sale. Problem 2; SAU have wonderful business traders who provide both SAU and SAU's members with major benefits. Business traders are restricted to posting in their business forums (which they have moderator access on). Business traders really need more exposure. We need to make sure the traders get as much exposure as we can give them. Some thoughts; Allowing traders to post in regular For Sale sections Allowing traders to post in regular forums (ie, somebody asking about what turbo to buy, a trader could suggest one of their products) A list of 'latest trader topics' on the top of the forum. This is open to suggestions/opinions by anybody. Even traders. Have your say! Best suggestions (as judged by the community in a followup poll of best posts) will get a little SAU pack sent out to them (containing something like stickers and lanyards - and maybe more.) I will close this thread in the coming weeks and move to a poll.
  2. Android powered double din units Hi All, I was browsing eBay because I'd like to update my head unit soon. I was stunned by how many super cheap ($150ish) Android-powered double din units there were. They seemed pretty good with a fair bit of memory and 1080p screen. What are these units actually like? Surely you can't go wrong at $150 for a unit with as much as these have. I'd only be worried about hardware failure I think. Check this guy out; http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/6-5-Double-2DIN-Car-Radio-Stereo-DVD-Player-GPS-Quad-Core-Android-4-4-3G-WIFI-/232176282348?roken=cUgayN I'd also be worried about startup time and whether the head unit would just resume from where you left it (ie, still tuned in to the same station). I'd hate to have to select my music every time I got in the car. What's the general consensus with these?
  3. Hey Jay, welcome to the site! As this is the newbie intro's section, this topic wont get much attention from the peeps in the know. I can move it to the tech area for more exposure if you'd like. Although, @Shoota_77 seems to have you covered.
  4. Welcome to the site! I love the V36's.
  5. Well done for checking though. This is the type of thing that would flip me out also.
  6. Its long overdue, I've put it off for long enough, but very soon we will be undergoing a massive update of the site to Invision 4. Invision is who we use for the forums and main components of SAU. Some addons are 3rd party (timeslips, spy, trader ratings, etc). The version of Invision we're using is no longer supported at all and the few bugs I've raised with them lately have not been fixed. I've been testing the process of upgrading on an external development server and it is very solid but also seriously time consuming with the latest test update of BASE forums functionality taking several hours. The soft date for initiating the update is this Friday at around 7pm. Things you need to know; Things will be a little different when you first log on after the update. The update is worth it with many very positive features being added. We'll be starting with a single theme initially but will be settling on a second (dark) theme in the weeks following the update. There will be hiccups! We request that you stay patient and log your bugs and problems in this thread. Supporter options (subscriptions) will be disabled from mid week (Wednesday) and will likely be the last feature to be updated (as we will be migrating subscriptions to a new system to work with Invision 4.) Ask questions in here. Thanks.
  7. Yep, there was a spam complaint on Jan 5, 2017 6:55 AM. Took forever to find it. If you want to get emails, don't mark them as spam. I have removed that complaint, hopefully thats all you need to get emails again.
  8. It looks like you may have marked an email as spam. I'll need to reset the status.
  9. That looks awesome! I hope there was nothing in that drum!!
  10. Nissan Nismo GT-R Is the standard Nissan GT-R too civilized for you? Maybe you feel like it’s lacking power or excitement. Fear not, the Nismo edition is here to solve all your worries. It offers more power, better handling, and greater overall performance, but that comes at a rather hefty premium. The GT-R is no longer the budget hypercar beating sportscar it once was. It’s now a full on supercar, with the price of the Nismo version exceeding that of Porsche’s Turbo S and even the 911 GT3 RS. Is it worth it? Well, it depends on what you want from a car. Nismo is short for Nissan Motorsports, the company’s caring division. They’re in charge of the hottest and most exciting models Nissan makes, and they eventually even deliver their own specially-tuned model like the R35 GT-R Nismo. It’s a hardcore, enthusiast car, so in that regard, it’s not a Porsche Turbo S rival. Then again, it has so much raw potential and outright speed that you can’t compare it to the GT3 RS, which is more of a driver’s car offering enjoyment. So what is the Nismo then? Well, for starters, it’s a lot more powerful than the standard GT-R. The 3.8 liter twin-turbo V6 located at the front has been tweaked to a rather large extent. The entire turbochargers have been swapped out for larger ones, offering higher air flow (they’re actually lifted from the GT3 car). The result is nothing short of astonishing, because the relatively light and compact unit is capable of delivering 600 horsepower and 481 pound-feet of torque. European models get 8 less horsepower, but it’s not really noticeable unless you’re a racing driver. The engine is still mated to a six-speed dual-clutch gearbox, but Nissan say it’s better than ever. The shifts are faster still, and it works great in conjunction with the new turbochargers. Elsewhere, there’s new shock absorbers, springs, stabilizers and a unique Bilstein DampTronic system which transfers power to the wheels more efficiently and is completely driver adjustable. A lot of emphasis has been put on aerodynamics. The Nismo version looks identical to the new 2017 GT-R, styling wise. It’s got the same tweaked front grille and the updated rear end, but a host of other changes as well. For instance, the aggressive bumper gets several layers of carbon-fiber sheets to improve the stiffness, the canards have been redesigned to improve overall airflow and the rear wing has been optimized to provide more downforce. The new Nismo GT-R manages to produce more downforce than any other Nissan ever built, apart from the racing cars of course. We have to get back to the elephant in the room, and that’s the price of the Nismo. It’s some $38,000 over the 2017 premium GT-R, raising the figure to a whopping $227,000. In other words, you can have a premium GT-R and a Golf GTI for the price of one Nismo. Would you, however? No, we wouldn’t either.
  11. This is going to make selling my Passat TDI interesting.
  12. Welcome koreaturbo.
  13. Welcome to SAU Adz! There are a lot of R31 owners on these forums, you should feel well at home.
  14. @Ryanchit check the post above that has the pic of my car at night. It has really affected the quality of the light in a positive way.
  15. Review: Mothers NuLens™ Headlight Renewal Kit European cars seem to struggle with maintaining high levels of headlight condition. While Japanese cars seem to suffer from fading/clouding, Euro's get pitting and a rough coating over them. We have 2 European cars and they've both fallen victim to this pitting and coating. I bought the Mothers NuLens™ Headlight Renewal Kit to try to clean up the headlights on my wife's 2007 Volkswagen Passat. Here's some pics of the headlight before I started. You can see just how bad the pitting and scratches are. So, the process is very simple; tape up your paintwork I put a hose on very low just dribbling over the headlight to keep it wet. Sand with the supplied 800 grit pad (you'll see in the below pics I needed to do this longer) When you have a uniform haze and it feels smooth, sand with the 1500 grit pad When the haze is uniform again, dry the light and Sand with the 3000 grit foam pad. Lastly, use the Powerball and polish to polish the headlight. So, after about 20 mins, the result is amazing. You can see that some scratches still exist, I can't feel these so I missed them on the 800 grit stage. I'm planning on redoing the sanding next week to see if I can improve it. But, even without doing that again, it looks (and feels) incredible. I would recommend this kit to anybody who has external defects on their headlights. (A lot of R33's get hazing/clouding on the inside of the headlight.) This is a 5 star product for sure. $40 very well spent.
  16. Hi

    Nice. It sounds like you need a build thread.
  17. Fitting a short shifter in an R33 GTR. The short shift kit that I used was a C's kit. Tools used: Needle nose pliers Philips head screwdriver Allan Key (not sure what size - its in a regular allan key set). Knife small screwdriver (or something small that you can get things out with). Time taken: 40mins. Remove the trim over the transmission tunnel. Remove the 4 screws holding down the metal bracket and rubber housings. You should see this Peel the rubber housing up over the gear shift. Find the big circlamp (2 big ends with holes - you can see it in this picture). You will either have to squeeze the ends together to take it out, or grab one end and feed it, bit by bit through the gap. You can now take the shifter out. Now take out the 2nd circlamp style thing. I fed it through the gap, bit by bit. (You can see it in place on the pics above). This is where the small screwdriver came in handy - this with the pliers. The plastic piece with the 2 metal rods should just pull straight out. Take out the little metal gasket. Seat the metal tubing that came with the C's shifter kit (might not be with the other ones) into the hole as an extension of the base. Put the metal gasket from the bottom of the original shifter on top of the extension cylinder. Place the plastic bit on top. Put the new shifter in. This bit is a bit tricky - the plstic bit at the bottom has to fit perfectly inside the gearbox casing (you can see where it has to go in the pics) - this took me several minutes to do. It will be firmly seated once in properly. This next bit is to hold it down (without the circlamps). You need to lightly screw the arms onto the base so they will swing. Then fit the base over the top and swing the arms around it and screw it together. The end result will look like this. (my camera got grease on the lense.. sorry about the bluriness) Now you will need to cut a slit in the rubber housing to get it down and over the shifter. (I am not sure if this is neccassary, but i saw no other way of doing it). Screw the top metal ring and rubber housings back over the rest. Put the trim back on. ALL DONE. And Jaysons leather gear boot still fits beatifully over the new short shifter. Done. Christian. Any q's - email me. I also have bigger pics available on request.
  18. Hey @pauldawson you'd be better off asking in one of the Automotive forums. That definitely doesn't seem normal to me.
  19. I've started coating my headlights weekly with the 303 protectant as it has UV protection. @warps I did this last year with my Bora, just bought the sand paper grades and did it myself. The reason I grabbed the Mothers kit this time is because of the polish and the polish ball to really get them sparkling, which it does. I will just use the sand paper directly from now on.
  20. Thanks guys, much appreciated. Its worth noting that the static is not the engine revs type of signal noise. This is a non-alternating constant static which is why it seems to be the reception to me. I don't listen to the radio a lot, but broken things just get under my skin. I'll be trying to get the plug in the glovebox this weekend, i'll report back afterwards.
  21. Lose reception when dash cam plugged in Hi Folks, I have a dash cam that plugs into the ciggy lighter. As soon as it plugs in, I lose any radio reception i had. (Could also just be static over the top of the radio I guess). I'm about to wire a second 12v socket into my glove box so I can have the camera plugged in a little more discreetly. What should I do to ensure I don't have the same problem when the new socket goes in? Can I add a noise filter thingo? Should I insulate the crap out of everything? Thanks in advance.
  22. Welcome to :sau: Bob! When are you moving?
  23. I did buy it on eBay. I'll check the plug whether it says 5v or 12v. I was going to retain the cigarette lighter plug, just have one in the glovebox. This should then still step down to 5v wouldn't it? That's an easy enough job, I can get a Narva one from Autobarn for under $10 I think. Thanks guys!
  24. Come on peeps. We need a 'post your evo' thread. I love these things and would love to have one as my daily. But alas, I must live vicariously through you guys.
  25. Yeah, only 2 have the proper tips. Out of 6. A bit irritated as they were $30ea only 20,000k's ago. No, I replaced these myself with the NGK platinums. 4 of the 6 are missing the little extra tip. I might get Bosch plugs next time. Theres not many options for my car, but i'm a bit bummed by the NGK's.