Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi there people

iv just been searching through the forums looking for knowledge on resisters. :happy:

i purchased sum yellow tip gtr injecters and also got these 7.5% resisters.

now iv sust how to wire them into my loom thanks to ROY :mad:

but now i cant figure out what way the power runs thru?????

$ ------------------------

$ [ WH50 ]

$ A [[[[[[[[ ]]]]]]]]]] B

$ [ 4AR7.5% ]

$ ------------------------

this is what i have above,they are a solid gold colour.

im thinking that the positive runs thru A and conect wire b to injecter.

i can take tem to shop and pay to find out but weres the fun in that.

any help would be good or if sum1 can refer me to a site THANKS

ps this site rules.hits help me diy my whole build :D

also it wont show my drawing properly hop you can make it out

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/282488-rsisters-gtr-injecters/
Share on other sites

Resistors are not directional in regards to current flow. Either way will work.

awesome....so this is my plan.

i have found the common power to the injectors (solid grey)25det series2 loom

i cut the wire and bridge it between 1 side of each resister.

next is to run the 6 wires from the resisters to each injecter???? :down:

now wat do i do with the remaing common power?????

awesome....so this is my plan.

i have found the common power to the injectors (solid grey)25det series2 loom

i cut the wire and bridge it between 1 side of each resister.

next is to run the 6 wires from the resisters to each injecter????

now wat do i do with the remaing common power?????

Yes you would then run to each injector, that's if you intend on running all new wiring to them. There is no remaining common power because you just used it for the resistors...

The wiring will remain but it will no longer have a 12v on it.

When I did it I just cut the 12v above each injector and wired the resistor for each inline. Saves having to run new wiring, but it does mean your butchering your loom, which personally I didn't have a problem with at the time cos it was a shitter r31.

Either way.

Edited by James_03
Yes you would then run to each injector, that's if you intend on running all new wiring to them. There is no remaining common power because you just used it for the resistors...

The wiring will remain but it will no longer have a 12v on it.

When I did it I just cut the 12v above each injector and wired the resistor for each inline. Saves having to run new wiring, but it does mean your butchering your loom, which personally I didn't have a problem with at the time cos it was a shitter r31.

Either way.

minta dont mind hacking away.its all being rewired to run under a custom plenum.plus the whole cars wiring has gone,only things in the car are there to make it run or do a certain job.cheers heaps for input.

also cant mud the r31z :P thats what my bottom end is from... :down:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...