Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Part are located near Mitcham in SA, can post anywhere in Aus at buyers expense.

Suspension/Steering

R32:

2x Front Sway Bar - $50ea

1x Front Complete upper control arm assembly (passenger side) including bracket and king pin bearing, urethane bushing - $100 -- PICS PICS

2x Front Camber Arms - $40ea -- PICS

2x Front Lower Control Arms - $60ea -- PICS

1x Front Tie Rod End - $10 -- PICS

2x Rear Traction arms - $35ea -- PICS PICS

2x Rear Camber arms - $35ea -- PICS

2x Rear Lower Control Arms - $60ea -- PICS

2x Rear sway bar links w/ Urethane bushes - $15ea -- PICS

2x Rear Hubs - $100ea -- PICS PICS

1x Rear Sway Bar - $50ea

2x Rear Toe Rods (non-hicas) - $35ea -- PICS

S13:

2x Rear Traction arms - $35ea -- PICS PICS

2x Rear Camber arms - $35ea -- PICS

2x Rear Toe Rods (non-hicas) - $35ea -- PICS

Misc

R32

1x Horn, can be hooked up to any car - $20 -- PICS

2x Stock Clutches, 1 half warn, one fair bit more warn - $30 and $70

1x Stock Rear Spoiler (with brake light) - $50 -- PICS

3x RB20 Coilpacks - $30ea

1x Turbo Timer, very basic timer, manual set - $20

1x RB20 Fuel Pump - $40 -- PICS

1x Igniter Module (breaks down under a lot of heat) - $30 -- PICS

Random shit

1x Handbrake lever - $5 -- PICS

5x Hub Covers - $20 -- PICS

1x BBS Hub Cover Spanner - $10 -- PICS

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/284115-b-i-g-c-l-e-a-n-o-u-t/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done your thinking backwards? 3 bar, 43.5 psi pressure drop being the presumed specification for an injector, means you need 3 bar upstream when they are firing into atmospheric pressure, and more upstream pressure than that when on boost (you add your boost to your rail pressure to maintain 3 bar across the injector) and you need..... less pressure upstream when you have vacuum in the manifold. So, presuming that you're idling at -10 psi, then you only need ~23 psi in the rail. I realise that I did not need to say all of that to you specifically Matt, once you'd realised your mistake. It's mostly there for complete clarity for others.
    • Have you reached out to the guys at Spool Imports? They are a Ross dealer, I can imagine they would have the rings just sitting on the shelf (I could be wrong).  
    • There's one for sale at Grand Auto Wreckers in Lonsdale (SA), for .... let's suggest the sum they're asking for will make you cry. You may have to embrace the idea of modifying the rear subframe to accept some other diff. You could probably find a way to wangle a shortnose into there, with a custom rear adapter and some sort of shenanigans to relocate the front mounts. This has probably already been done by others, so there might be some guidance available as to how easy/impossible it is, out there in the googles. But you possibly needn't restrict yourself to Nissan diffs if you're going to contemplate that. There are similarish Toyota diffs, possibly some Euro ones, possibly some Seppo ones.
    • The ball joint taper and arm taper have to match angle and diameter, but just doing the bushes is a much better option.....seems like the industry moved to "it is cheaper to replace the whole arm than take on the labour for changing this bushes", glad the aftermarket supports it
    • Gee she looks a bit rear heavy in that first pic! Sounds like a great project with the kids, but as I guess you know R series stuff is getting hard to find and pre that is pretty much impossible these days
×
×
  • Create New...