Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello,

I am considering a used power fc, the serial number is PFCGTR33 000-0072. Application is S1 R33 GTR

I'm wondering what revision this one is, and if there are any known issues with this build. I seem to recall that some versions were better than others, so I'd like to know about this one before I buy it!

Thanks for any help!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285669-power-fc-version-q/
Share on other sites

this is covered in the PFC FAQ in detail, there are "no known differences" between the builds

gen 1 is RB26XX-XXXXX and gen 2 is GTR33L-XXXXX or GTR33D-XXXXX and so on...

1st gen was sold as seperate hand controller and PFC

2nd gen was sold as a bundle with the same price

so you have 2nd generation

the PFC FAQ (in my sig) also covers how to unerstand the serial # and build dates etc

this is covered in the PFC FAQ in detail, there are "no known differences" between the builds

gen 1 is RB26XX-XXXXX and gen 2 is GTR33L-XXXXX or GTR33D-XXXXX and so on...

1st gen was sold as seperate hand controller and PFC

2nd gen was sold as a bundle with the same price

so you have 2nd generation

the PFC FAQ (in my sig) also covers how to unerstand the serial # and build dates etc

Thank you Sir!

I read your FAQ, very informative, it seemed to indicate this was from an early batch of the second gen. I thought there was a processor change at some point in the build of gen 2 models...not correct?

i think from memory only the GTST had a processor change, not sure if GTR did as well

even with the processor change, its the same functionality and operationalability

the only 'known' variance between the CPU models is that older older first gen units

were slow when using 3rd party tools such as datalogit, as it must update cell by cell

whereas the new PFC units supported the faster data protocol spec

its pretty rare to find a 'slow' data xfer PFC with datalogit

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...