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Built Rb25 W26 Crank/rods/headwork/cams, Inlet Maifold And Fuel System, Are Alloy Rad And Cooler, Rb25 Box And Kit To Convert 32, Blitz Spec R Boost


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Stripping out my 32 as need to get some cash together as building a house. Chassis is also for sale if you wont a good drift/track project

In Adelaide but wil ship, some parts still in car but can remove when required.

Engine: R33 RB25,2630cc?, fully built engine by Nisspeed here in Adelaide. Engine was built, engine dyno tuned and fitted in car, we used it for 12 months at about 4 drag meets and very little street use. Engine was stipped down to check it out and have a look, sump baffels were istalled, new rings and since then it has only just been started. Engine includes

RB26 crank balanced, streightened and ground

RB26 rods preped with ARP bolts

ARP cradle studs

Wiesco forged 87mm pistons

sump mods for anti oil surge

Metal head gasket

N1 oil/water pump

New thermostat

RB25 head ported

HD valve springs

HKS? 272 and 264 cams ( one was new the other as good as cant remember the exact specs)

HKS adjustable exh cam gear

ARP head studs

RB26 clear cover - modified

R33 CAS

Rocker covers painted gloss balck with -10 fittings for the breather pipes

engine does not include inlet/exh manifold/PS pump/alternator/ but can include parts if needed

Price: $5k

Inlet:

Custom inlet manifold on std runners - old Subzero type one, with 70mm? 5ltr holden throttle body

Includes alloy fuel rail with 75lb ~800cc Holley injectors

Sard pressure reg

Injectors, reg and fuel rail were new, mainfold SH but polished up

$1200

Fuel System

SX fuel pump, good for 700 HP

SX fuel filter

Alloy surge tank with pump and filter mounted on plate

Fuel cell about 30 ltr and lift pump

all conected with stainless braided teflon lines, all parts purchased new

$700

ARE cooler, 600x300x100 Bar and plate, 2.5" inlet, 3" outler,

anyone that knows ARE stuff know it is top quality, with cast end tanks for optimum flow etc, barely a mark on the cooler

$800

ARE 40mm radiator, duel pass cross flow, fits my 32, not sure if 33 etc are the same, includes large themo fan (15" ?)

$600

R33 RB25 gearbox, good contition still shifts smooth as, includes slave cyl

$1000

Conversion kit to put R33 box in R32 includes modified 1 piece tail shaft, modified gearbox mount

$100

Also have cooler piping in 2.5" and 3'' stainless, painted silver with tial BOV, and inlet pipe, 4" with big K&N filter can can include some of this if you buy multiple parts.

Blitz Duel SBC spec R boost controller, as new, $500

Dyno sheet attached of what the car did on the roller at about 1.4 bar boost

Please contact me by email [email protected]

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Radiator and fuel system sold

may swap engine and or inlet setup for standard items plus cash

Sorry Chassis sold

hey mate how much u selling chassis for? defected?

Engine/Radiator/Cooler/fuel setup sold

Still have Inlet manifold with injectors and fuel reg - sard and boost controller

Will post pics in the next coupld of days now that they are out of car

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  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
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