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Ok, today my dad and I installed the following:

1. Stillen Catback exhaust - twin tube flow design & stainless steel

2. Stillen front and rear sway bars

A lot of elbow grease, WD40 was required....

Pics of install:

Sway Bar - Front

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Sway bar - Rear

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Exhaust - Old

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Exhaust Comparisons - Old vs New

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Exhaust - New

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Final Product...

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Commentary:

1. despite the pricey amount (and super expensive shipping), I would happily pay to buy the Stillen exhaust again. It gives a slightly deeper drone at idle and is just as quiet as the OEM unit.

2. At full acceleration, the noise is not loud (unlike the many previous exhaust I have had on my other cars over the years)

3. The car feels more revvy and feels more powerful at full acceleration. Stillen claims it adds an additional 21 to 23 HPs...Obviously, I need to get it on a dyno if I wanted to prove it...

4. If you ask how come I didnt get a JDM exhaust, let me tell you a secret....Stillen are class leading when it comes to their products on Nissan 350z, G35s, Altimas....

Ok, after all that, I was going to install the Stillen front Strut Brace - but here's the problem....I have killed my strut tower nuts x 3 whilst trying to undo them. Can anyone suggest how I can get them removed??? They are the 3 nuts on the battery side where there ain't alot of room to move...

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288782-my-stillen-exhaust-sway-bars/
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Nice work! Looks like your dad was doing all the work while you were taking photos :)

I've got the same Stillen strut brace and same problem as you have (strut tower nuts on the battery side). I will wait until my next scheduled service and get my mechanic to fit it.

The Stillen twin tips stick out a tad too much don't u think? Someones gonna trip over them one day or even worse get burnt lol.

2. use a hammer and a chisel to turn them

i have used both methods

yeah I had to do that when I rounded the nut holding my front strutbrace

had to take my car off the ramps, jack up the front and take the wheel off for more clearance, hammered the side of the nut so it kind of had an edge again and then chisel with mallet the little f^cker finally popped loose

think the chisel and hammer might be a bit awkward on the strut tower bolts as they kind of sit horizontal as opposed to vertical when I did my swaybars. def give the vicegrips a go, otherwise suck it up and get a local mechanic to take it off for you :ninja:

Nismo - I did a lot of the work also, it's just that there was no way for my dad to take pics of me under the car...

We tried the vice grip pliers for like 20 mins, but not enough clearance to get it to bit and turn (except for an upwards position - meaning no turning force)...

We tried WD40 for 1 hr...

We tried hammer and chisel for one of the nuts, and it was like butter...didn't do sh*t...

We tried hammering a Size 11 socket into it (was a size 12 nut)...no luck there and rounded the nut further...

I am so annoyed now..can't concentrate on anything, just thinking about those 3 bugger of nuts....

Yo-yo - yes, front sway bar nut was also a killer...took 20 mins per nut to undo...the secret is getting enough ground clearance to maximise the elbow/arm force...

RS73 will be taking a sound clip when I see him next....

so file two opposite sides of the nut to make them flat, then use a shifting spanner on them! easy!

also, all you need is leverage to undo tight bolts, buy a breaker bar, then put your trolley jack handle on the end of it if its not long enough. you dont need to get the car all that high up.

  • 4 weeks later...

Finally found a nut remover tool kit...wasn't cheap and set me back $120....

If you are after one of theses kits, don't bother going to Bunnings or the Auto Shops....You can only get them at the professional tool shops.

The nuts came off so easily with this tool....credits to the inventor!!!! It's such a simple design...might take a pic of it to show u guys wat the fuss is all about...

So today, it will be off to buy some replacement nuts, and put in my Stillen strut brace!!!!

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