Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

guys i have posted this pic and put arrows to the location,all i need to know if this is the place to run the line for a mechanical speco boost gauge?

ive put the pic up as when i have asked before without a pic the only answer i got was that the guy used a t-piece on his which pretty much didn't help me at all as i needed to know where to run it from.

please let me know.

post-40900-1253600957_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/289045-please-take-a-look-at-the-pic/
Share on other sites

I have been told a number of times ... (and I have done it this way and I also have a speco mechanical boost guage) to t-piece it off the hose that connects at the front of the stock bov...

  • 3 weeks later...

sorry for bringing up an old topic but rather do this than make a new one,i decided to use the hose that goes to the stock bov as its best to fit the t-piece but i have another problem.

with the speco mech 2" boost gauge are they meant to come with 2 compression sleeves?cause mine only has one and also when i use the only compression sleeve and one of the compression nuts and do it up tight onto the boost gauge the white pressure hose can be pulled out very easily is this normal?

there should of been a round brass ring that only just slips over the white hose this ring needs to be tight when slipped on to help with the crimping when nut is tightened. mine had the right size ring for the white hose that came with it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...