Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got pulled over and was unlucky enough to have my engine numbers taken down by queensland transport. Now I need a mod plate for my RB25/30 conversion, and because its a hybrid the engine it must pass a IM240 (for a 1992 car) as part of the cert process.

Who is the closest to Brisbane who does this test?

Also anyone with advice, who has mod plate for a 25/30, it would be much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/289342-im240-test-in-brisbane/
Share on other sites

did you get pulled over by a police officer or by QLD transport? and how?

when cops can tell the difference between a rb30de head/covers and a rb25 you know your in trouble

Hybrid engine: "um I don't know, my mechanic put it on"??????

LOL

que homer simpson/yoda voice

"RB30 me not have RB30"

yeah it was a little bit like that!!!!! the guy from Queensland transport knew straight away it wasn't a 2 litre, from memory its about the fifth time i have been pulled over since the conversion(in about 18 months). The other times the officers couldn't find the engine numbers, and i would hardly admit it was the wrong engine if they didn't have the numbers as proof.

Edited by brent32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...