Cheap Wheels 18' And 17' (114.3 X 5 Stud)
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By TurboTapin · Posted
It should work without the car running. Confirm you see roughly the same resistance from the level wires at the back of the cluster. If they're good, your cluster is fubar. If not, start tracing that wire back. -
My fuel level sender was shot so I decided to fix it properly with repair kit from FPG. Now I can read resistance and confirm that it changes with movement using the method in the service manual (page EN-258). However, the fuel gauge on the cluster still refuses to move. I need help to figure out next steps to troubleshoot the issue as I was really hoping fixing the sender would do it but it seems that I have multiple issues here. By the way I haven't started the engine since fixing. My assumption (and going from memory from when the gauge worked) is that the needle should move when the key is in the ON position without having to start the engine. Please correct me if that's wrong and I'm just trying to fix an non existent issue because I was too dumb to just start the engine... Thanks for the help! -
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-5 is too big for most uses unless you are racing, they are pretty laggy in twins -
Group N is a type of limited modification production rally, I agree they ware probably just -5s or similar. You really need the details from the tag on the core to tell, the housings don't tell you much because they can be machined to suit many cores. For checking the compressor, all you need is to see no physical damage. The amount of movement in the shaft (side to side and forward/backward) is what matters
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