Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All. i have a R34 RB25DE NEO and i want to install a pod filter but i got couple of questions.

1. My car is pretty much stock with a Fujitsubo exhaust system (legalis-R), will i gain power at all?

2. What sizes does Pod filter come in? I know that having one is illegal, so i was wondering if i can get one that can fit inside my original airbox? Has anyone done this?

3. If pod filter does come in difference size, will performance decrease if the pod filter is smaller?

4. If im hiding the pod filter in the airbox, does it defeat the purpose of having one over a hi-flow panel filter? ( i sort of want a bit of sound from the pod filter)

I guess if all doesnt work out, i might just go for a hi-flow panel filter.

Any help will be thankful

Edited by Aznbongsta
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290383-pod-filter-help/
Share on other sites

1). Umm, to gain power you need a heat shield and cold air intake, the exhaust wouldnt do anything the cat and extractors are all that needs to be done to NA's if you want value.

2). All range in sizes (length) Apexi are stubby if your after a small one. If your a P' plater its "illegal" but i have had every cop that is not a highway patrol fine with it. Reason being NSW ask for the pod filter to be enclosed in a heat shield too make it legal for street use. The cops see it like that and are fine but the highway patrol just say take it off and then drive away. Yes people do put pod filter in there stock airboxes.

3). No, not necessarily. you could have filter paper wrapped around your intake hole and it would still change how much air is being taken in.

4). Yes, if you make yourself a heatshield and cold air intake with the pod in it and had the stock airbox and highflow panel you would be looking at the same setup for a NA. There isn't enough induction to create an actual strain on how much air flows through the filter on the NA. Thats why turbos and pod filters will atleast make there difference, you wont get induction sounds for it. If my foot is flat to the floor and i get to 5000rpm i can hear a sucking that sounds pretty weak. Id compare it to like 10% the induction volume of a turbo

To be honest, it will have no performance difference. Its up to you if you like the stock look or a pod filter look.

Edited by central coast person
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290383-pod-filter-help/#findComment-4859408
Share on other sites

1). Umm, to gain power you need a heat shield and cold air intake, the exhaust wouldnt do anything the cat and extractors are all that needs to be done to NA's if you want value.

2). All range in sizes (length) Apexi are stubby if your after a small one. If your a P' plater its "illegal" but i have had every cop that is not a highway patrol fine with it. Reason being NSW ask for the pod filter to be enclosed in a heat shield too make it legal for street use. The cops see it like that and are fine but the highway patrol just say take it off and then drive away. Yes people do put pod filter in there stock airboxes.

3). No, not necessarily. you could have filter paper wrapped around your intake hole and it would still change how much air is being taken in.

4). Yes, if you make yourself a heatshield and cold air intake with the pod in it and had the stock airbox and highflow panel you would be looking at the same setup for a NA. There isn't enough induction to create an actual strain on how much air flows through the filter on the NA. Thats why turbos and pod filters will atleast make there difference, you wont get induction sounds for it. If my foot is flat to the floor and i get to 5000rpm i can hear a sucking that sounds pretty weak. Id compare it to like 10% the induction volume of a turbo

To be honest, it will have no performance difference. Its up to you if you like the stock look or a pod filter look.

Dam, thanks man. perfect answers i wanted to know.

I think ill just pass on this one, Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290383-pod-filter-help/#findComment-4859414
Share on other sites

K&N Panel in the box would be your best bet. That's what I done till I had my conversion done, and even then there's panel filters that still flow very well for that application.

As Andrew said, they really need to be shielded from the heat soak in the engine bay. Stick with a high flow panel in the box and it will go unnonticed and you won't compromise the small gains to be had.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290383-pod-filter-help/#findComment-4859559
Share on other sites

K&N Panel in the box would be your best bet. That's what I done till I had my conversion done, and even then there's panel filters that still flow very well for that application.

As Andrew said, they really need to be shielded from the heat soak in the engine bay. Stick with a high flow panel in the box and it will go unnonticed and you won't compromise the small gains to be had.

Hey Thanks for the tip. I notice that you turbo your DE. How much does that roughly set you back? im thinking of doing that after i get off my p's.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290383-pod-filter-help/#findComment-4859673
Share on other sites

A little or a lot.

I used a misx of 2nd hand and new parts.. biggest killer in costs is the labour and tuning! I've lost track of costs now, they always get added to, whether its an EBC and tune, rebuilding a half dead gearbox, or just throwing in some gauges to see how hot my oil is actually getting and that I probably should consider the cost of an oil cooler in summer. really allow between 3k-5k.

Also consider that the brakes on an R34 25GT Sedan (not the GTV) are piss poor. 280mm front discs and 265mm rear discs with 2 and 1 pot calipers is really a joke so factor in a brake upgrade to something like R33 GTSt brakes, and custom lines to suit.

You'd be best getting sorting out things like suspension, sway bars, tyres, brakes etc.. before throwin on a turbo. if you've already done those things, then start saving and way up the balance between an engine swap and a conversion.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290383-pod-filter-help/#findComment-4859765
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...