Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I started my car up one morning and the 4wd light stayed lit. Flicked my custom 4wd switch a couple of times but it would not fix. Checked the 4wd fuse and it is still active. There are no strange noises coming from anywhere (nothing loud enough to hear anyway). The car opperates fine, besides being in rwd mode. Has anyone else had a similar issue? Or does anyone know what the problem might be? My guess is it might be something electrical not working anymore...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/290941-4wd-in-r32-gtr-not-working/
Share on other sites

Take the plugs out of comput in boot under the rear parcel tray & clean & reconnect. My car does it quite reguraly it seems to work for me. Think me have faulty plug.

thanks guys, will try both at lunch and let you know how I went. Cheers!

sounds like the tps is faulty or not adjusted to read 0.4V at key on. The Attessa looks for this voltage and if too high or low will not allow the 4wd to work.

Edited by DiRTgarage
sounds like the tps is faulty or not adjusted to read 0.4V at key on. The Attessa looks for this voltage and if too high or low will not allow the 4wd to work.

Bugger. So no simple fix here I see. I wonder if the fact that I have a 33 gtr engine and a 32 gtr gear box has anything to do with it. I can't see why it would though.

post-59308-1254883850_thumb.jpg

Bugger. So no simple fix here I see. I wonder if the fact that I have a 33 gtr engine and a 32 gtr gear box has anything to do with it. I can't see why it would though.

i think from memory the wire at the attessa is purple...check the voltage of that to ground.

i think from memory the wire at the attessa is purple...check the voltage of that to ground.

checked from the hicas and voltage does not move from the control unit in the boot after pressing the accelerator and yes the ignition was on. However the purple wire going into the pfc was working fine, so the fault must be with the pfc. Either way I have to take it to a mechnic that knows pfc's (can anyone recomend in hills district?) becuase all my electrics have just decided to go spastic like I have dropped a major earth. My stanard guages oil pressure is reading 10 bar (off scale) but my after market guage is reading 50 psi. Whenever I use the blinker the power steering turns off every time the blinker emits and then turns on every time the blinker is off. So turning a corner with the blinker is on (power steering off, on, off, on.....). Same goes for braking and basically anything electrical. Kind of scary now.

Turns out it was only a bad earth. All electrics are now working again and even my 4wd. Thanks magic bolt and now I can still go to putty road. Thanks dirt garage and co for your advice...such a simple fix, slightly embarrassed but mostly releived.

  • 1 year later...

my r32 gtr did this at the local drags yesterday.

had 3 runs, then lined up again and the anti-lock light lit up on the dash.

went to do a burnout and only had rear wheel drive.

after the run, which was basically a powerskid, i checked all fuses but nothing seemed wrong.

started the car again and the light had gone out. lined up for another run and while waiting the anti-lock light came on again. 2wd again.

is the fluid resevoir in the boot anything to do with the atessa, or only hicas? and is it normal for it to drop to minimim level when hot, but be on full when cold.

want to go to willowbank this wednesday so want to get it sorted.

guess i will start with the atessa ecu, then check for any loose earths.

any advice would be appreciated.

is it a common problem for the 4wd light on the dash not to work.

mine dosent work, and i just pulled the dash apart to hopefully replace the bulb, but the bulb was fine.

has never lit up since i have owned the car??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...