Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Got your PM, but its still telling me I have made 0 posts apparently and I cant reply.

no worries, reply when you can. if not, there'll be plenty to go round so don't panic :cool:

  • 2 weeks later...

Is there a way to see the colour difference between black and charcoal?

Wondering what would look better with the grey dash and black carpet lol.

Bishes have been slack at le factory! That and I dropped it off to them at the end of month. Their work orders apparently soared to mass levels, however I've spoken to them and they've apoligised dearly (a.k.a. offered me a beer AND a coca cola - that's business etiquette right there) and said that they're working on it and yadayada.

But I'm expecting 2x samples one in black one in charcoal to a) compare and b) check fitment. I am expecting those this friday. if they're not done i'm going to give them a piece of my mind. and axe. of fire.

Rest assured dear cefiro owners, THEY WILL BE MADE.

Not until we have them :D

Black is your black carpet, charcoal is more like the color of your trim (unless you got a Ceffy with brown interior...)

Woo! So really it should look good either way!

And yay for progress! :dry:

  • 2 weeks later...

You can move it if you like?

Progress report is that I'm getting a sample FINALLY made and given to me this week, so I'll fit it to my car and post up pics ASAP.

fffuuu.gif

Gya. I want my goddamn dashmats. Went there today, they're to the stage of lining up and cutting out the vents for the mats. once they get that sorted then production can FINALLY start. Next week.

OK people,

After some f**king around, they've finished the mould.

They werent sure where to cut the air con vents and auto headlight sensors, so I had to stop in, find this out, stop in the next day with vents, stop in the day after and get the dash and mold, bring it home and test fit it all.

I've decided (without deliberation with my sidekick, Jason) that instead of locking the front of the mat, leave it open. The locking along the edges will end at just above the air con vents facing the driver's and passenger's windows.

The dash continues downwards on an angle, about 1.5", after the dash meets the windshield (parallel to the windshield, and pretty much contact with it)

I want to leave the mat unlocked along that line, so that you can slide the mat between the windshield and the dash, into this small gap....this will help hold the dash still, alot better then just Velcro on its own.

If the majority of you disagree, let me know before MONDAY, as that is when the locking will be applied to the mats, SO, give me some feedback.

Pics attached

The drawn line along the dash is where the glass meets the dash when its fitted inside the car.

The auto headlight sensors havent been cut on the mold in the picture, but they are cut, and will be on all the dash mats...for those of you that have properly working auto headlight sensors.

30 are up for initial production, we'll probably do more if the first 30 sell out quickly.

15 Grey (similar or same as the picture attached)

15 Black (black..yeah...its pretty easy to imagine, no pics needed)

ALSO, if the majority of you want Black, we'll set more to be produced in Black, instead of Grey, so, keep us posted.

Cheers

Nic

post-62975-1259837259_thumb.jpg

Edited by Nic_A31

Thanks nic! Much appreciated.

Note - this dashmat shown is yet to receive its protective and aesthetic edging. once we get it cut to fit, then the edges will go on.

Did they give you an ETA when you were there? Theoretically they SHOULD have them made by next week if the original goes in tomorrow.

Either way, thanks heaps mate.

OK, final test fit / first proper made received today.

NOTES:

The bit I asked to be left open an unlocked, to tuck in between the windshield and the dash....didn't happen...its just locked up the top, and we'll just have to do with Velcro.

The auto headlight sensors...these will be semi cut in the dashmat, but still intact with it....to remove it, just twist it out, or cut the traced line with a Stanley knife....so you folks that have covered the sensors up for whatever reason can leave them covered.

PICS:

Looking more at 20 Black and 10 Grey at this stage.

Any last second Q's, prob easier at this stage to give me a call

0431 598 320

-Nic

post-62975-1260264705_thumb.jpg

post-62975-1260264742_thumb.jpg

Or me - 0447 188 408.

That shit looks AWESOME. I'm happy with that result.

I'll give the supplier a call and put the order in for 10 grey, 20 black. Once I get them, I'll be sending out PM's to those who've PM'd me regarding these. and we'll go from there.

Cheers for collecting it Nic. And for the pics :P

Btw: change your progress to 80%. You have a dashmat now. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...