Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone,

Just put a deposit on a auto 98 r34 gt t but have some questions about the car. First off ive never owned a skyline so my knowledge is very limited. Anwyays the car im going to purchase has just been imported to Australia and is going to get complianced sometime next week. I was told that its no longer a plate and is now a sticker. Is this true?

Also being a fresh import is there anything i need to look out for? (i would be the first registered owner) Im a little concerned because im getting the car for very cheap. So something must be up unless his being honest and he needs the money desperately to get his other cars into oz.

A friend of mine said to call nissan and give them the vin number or model number cause some people are bolting on turbos to non turbos and selling them as turbos.

And finally if anyone has anything at all, even something simple they could share with me on what to look for on a R34 i would really appericiate it.

Thanks smile.gif

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293347-r34-gt-t/
Share on other sites

Dunno about the sticker....it should be a plate still, stickers can be lost pretty easily.

Imports are cheap, but the importing costs like customs, rego, compliance, etc all add up.

You can enter the VIN or model number into software called Nissan FAST to see what setup it had at the factory, or ring Nissan with the engine number and see if it was a factory turbo. There's no harm in bolting on turbo's as long as no corner's are cut - its a pretty common conversion in almost any import.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293347-r34-gt-t/#findComment-4898271
Share on other sites

GOT IT, nevermind that, had to fiddle with the number:

VIN CODE: ER34

006543

MODEL:

GGKBRTAR34UDAAJJE

MODEL SERIES:

R34

PRODUCTION YEAR / MONTH:

98 / 06

COLOR CODE:

KV2

INTERIOR COLOR:

G

RB25DET

HICAS, RWD

25 GTT

2K (not sure what this means...in the same field, my Cefiro is reffered to as "S", others are SE-4, VL, etc)

AUTOMATIC, 4 SPEED

Edited by Nic_A31
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/293347-r34-gt-t/#findComment-4898395
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...