Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

it was the first time for me changing the oil since i've owned the car, when taking the old filter out the oil seemed thicker than the HPR-10. So maybe there was an underlying issue with the engine possibly being hidden by the thicker oil?..

The car was warmed for 15 minutes to let the new oil circulate after the oil change, then driven with some spirit with spurts to 6k rpm. Possibly the lower oil level meant the bottom end was starved of oil like you said.

So any recommended builders? as per the previous post? and where to source parts for the build

Midland Engine Centre will do the build if you ask them. And that package you said sounds decent. But I would consider looking at Spool Imports website. They come with rods, pistons, bearings and head gasket for around $2500. All forged, ARP rod bolts and you can choose comp. Probably the cheapest option as second hand RB26's are still pretty expensive - this way also you will have a brand new engine, so you know condiiton and can expect a good life from the motor.

If you're not comfortable with the engine transplant, contact Mike Don @ RT Conversions. No one would have heard of them, they do very specialised stuff. In fact, its my old man :) We built my RB30/25 which runs in a 1973 Holden HQ (initially was running an RB30e back in 05) and has also dropped a TT-1UZFE in his 2 Door GTS. Is also building a 67 Mustang fastback with 08 Mustang running gear. Him and my uncle Nino (proprieter) can do it all and I guarantee it will cost you half what any workshop will quote.

Otherwise, take it to a workshop you can trust i.e All-star or Ovaboost. That way if problems do occur you can take it back to them any time and get them to fix it.

Edited by cactus

I didn't insist on anything, I've seen cars put straight on a dyno after an oil change and straight to a track after an oil change. I drove it as I would any other day and waited 15 minutes as it idled and drove 5 minutes slowly drive below 2k rpm to warm it up before I gave it some.

Why do most people insist on trashing the car just after oil change??

what do they hope it will achieve??

its beyond me?

it was the first time for me changing the oil since i've owned the car, when taking the old filter out the oil seemed thicker than the HPR-10. So maybe there was an underlying issue with the engine possibly being hidden by the thicker oil?..

The car was warmed for 15 minutes to let the new oil circulate after the oil change, then driven with some spirit with spurts to 6k rpm. Possibly the lower oil level meant the bottom end was starved of oil like you said.

So any recommended builders? as per the previous post? and where to source parts for the build

Your driving isn't the issue... a GTR warmed up properly and then driven WOT to 6K should love you for it :) To starve the bottom end you would have to be doing serious launches or hard cornering, anything to get the oil moving away from the pickup in the pan... sustained high rpm will pump a lot of oil into the head too but it doesn't sound like you were doing that

The bearings may have already been damaged and the previous owner has chucked some super thick oil in it to mask the noise... its a possibility but I've had bottom end knocks in a few of my engines and they were all pretty god damned loud... loud enough to be heard in the car with a helmet on so I would be surprised to learn thicker oil could mask the sound

Good luck with it

Sounds like young mechanic drained oil, proberly started it without oil and then realized he had no oil in it and then put some in.

Was it knocking when you picked it up?

What oil pressure do you have? Normal???

Sounds like young mechanic drained oil, proberly started it without oil and then realized he had no oil in it and then put some in.

Was it knocking when you picked it up?

What oil pressure do you have? Normal???

I just finished reading all of this and i thought i'll add something.

About two and half years ago my brother asked me to service his N14 SSS.

I had dropped the oil and removed his oil filter, he came walking pass and i asked my bro if he could move the car back for me so i can get the oil pan out from under the car.

He not realizing that the car had no oil in it and thinking ahh ok i'll start the car and move it back for me.

He started the car and i yelled out to him switch the car off quickly. Car probley was running for about 5 or more secs. before he switched it off.

Me thinking oh shit he has just killed his car.

Well i can tell you that this car is still going great after all these years.

It might not of been a gtr however give the fact the car ran without oil for only a really short bit of time was either pure luck or maybe did not do any damage as the engine was still cold.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...