Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Helping my bestmate sell his car..

As follows

-2002 Subaru Impreza WRX wagon in silver

-Great condition, always serviced with quality fluids (Royal Purple and Castrol)

-All work done by IS Motor Racing

-100,000 km service recently done with genuine Subaru parts

Lots of extra goodies.. as follows

Fujitsubo RM-01A cat back exhaust (street exhaust, not loud loud, very nice sound)

X-Force 4" dump pipe

MetalCat High flow stainless steel cat

MRT up pipe

In other words, car has full turbo back exhuast in addition to the up-pipe (part of the extractors sort of..) which removes the restrictive factory up pipe with cat.

IHI VF29 Turbo

STi top mount intercooler

STi bonnet scoop (same silver factory paint) and splitter

ARC Induction/Intake box (also have a spare APS in-guard intake)

Zerosport inlet pipe

HKS double fire step colder racing spark plugs

Sard 650CC injectors

MRT Billet Aluminium Injector Rail

Walbro in-tank fuel pump

Perrin lightweight crank pulley

Factory ECU remapped through ECUTEK @ MRT

GReddy Profec B-Spec II boost controller

Cusco coilovers (bought new, specifically engineered for the wagon)

Cusco sway bars

Cusco underbody brace

Cusco Strut braces F/R

Brembo brakes F/R from 04 STi

RDA slotted rotors F, DBA conversion rotors R

Bendix Ultimate pads all round

Rays Volk RE30 wheels 17x8 with Rays wheel nuts and centre caps. Wheels are a dark bronze colour. No scratches whatsoever.

New Advan 048 semi slicks..

ARC pulley cover

ARC radiator cover

Perrin radiator hoses (Black)

05 JDM STi cluster (Defi)

Defi BF triple gauge pod (Boost, Oil temp, Water temp)

GReddy turbo timer

STi floor mats (they were cheaper than the WRX ones lol)

STi front grill

Mesh foglight covers (black - unpainted)

That's roughly what's on the car. All installed. Please note almost all stock parts will come with car too, and some uninstalled aftermarket parts too such as Perrin Silicone turbo inlet hose, a unichip to suit the car. And a few extras such as roof racks (Subaru) and some other small unused parts.

I can personally attest to the car's performance. It really moves, the brakes are very impressive, and the handling is poo your pants scary good. The best thing is there's not much turbo lag as you can tell from the mod list that the car has been setup to be balanced and have as little lag as possible while still making good power (hence a VF29 turbo upgrade).

24K as is, or 19k without the wheels and brakes (factory items refitted).

Any questions, ask me!

gallery_56118_3384_151358.jpg

gallery_56118_3384_115220.jpg

gallery_56118_3384_102090.jpg

gallery_56118_3384_71514.jpg

gallery_56118_3384_73506.jpg

More pics as i get them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297118-fs-02-wrx-wagon-hardcore-streeter/
Share on other sites

Just asked, 130xxx odd km's, mostly motorway driving.

Still have original cluster and the jdm sti cluster was bought with very low km's on it.

Also please note the major 100,000kms was actually done a fair while ago now. The first post info was mostly copied and pasted (from an EOI ad long time ago).

Forgot another mod - twin fuel regulator. :D

Lack of interest. Its been 4 days. Some cars take 12 months to sell on here.

This rex is very nice, but have a look around what you can buy for $24,000 on here.

I'll offer my R32 GTR as a straight swap if he wants. He can keep his wheels and brakes.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Hi Albert,

I asked my mate to confirm, and he's not really interested in an R34 sorry :). Thankyou for the interest though. GL selling your car (looks very nice in your pics).

He's not interested in the stag, thanks and sorry.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Great work! Give it a clean up with some Emery paper, and I'd run a thread die over the threads too to clean them up. It will make reinstall much easier, and also life easier for the next time it needs to come out.
    • I'm not a fan of high humidity, it's one reason I don't mind being further inland out Ipswich, except the last 3 odd years, the drought broke, and it won't stop raining, which is making the humidity nearly unbearable when the rains are in during summer! For me, my body hates the cold, once the cold sets into my body, I'm totally screwed. I end up with severe muscle spasm in my back/shoulder muscles, and it feels like someone is trying to tear the muscles out. I have no issues with it getting stupid hot, so long as the humidity goes away. So the last 3 years as above, have been woeful! Ha ha. However, June 1st, and I'm only just converting from shorts and a tee, to long pants and a t shirt. And that's mainly as it's a bit wet and miserable and I wanted to work on a car.
    • I much prefer colder weather to hot weather, and especially prefer cold to hot and humid, Goulburn does gets pretty warm in the hotter months, but, I've found the humidity there is not as painful as even Sydney, the humidity up north is to oppressing for this old rooster  In saying this, it does get rather "nippy" in Goulburn for early morning, late in the evening walks, but nothing that a layer or two, some thermal gloves, and a beanie doesn't fix to make it an enjoyable experience, which is much more bearable to me than the oppression of heat and humidity,  especially at night when your trying to sleep If I recall correctly, a "wise man" once said that the "Southern Tablelands" was gods country, and I will not argue that point with him for the fear of a "permaban" LOL In car part related news: My intake is currently in Botany getting processed for the last leg of its shipping journey to my door   
    • Had a go at the stuck crush tube this afternoon. Tried things like grips and a chain wrench first but wouldn't just twist straight off. So got to work with a drill. Started small and kept a depth stop on to make sure I didn't drill into the bolt. Made a line of drill holes all the way up and enlarged them. Then a combination of chisel and Dremel to split it all the way up. Levered the split to get oil in there and eventually it gave a bit while levering. Worked it back and forth with loads more oil till it was spinning freely, then with grips I could work it downwards and off. And no significant damage to the bolt (not by me anyway - just the 27 years of rust)
    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
×
×
  • Create New...