Jump to content
SAU Community

V35 Skyline

OKBANANA

By OKBANANA,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Rezz Grand Master

Rezz

Posted
Posted

Name: V35 (Skyline) GT-R

Company: Nissan Entertainment Europe

Release Date: 2007 or Carlos Ghosn dying/being sacked, whichever comes first.

Rumoured Specification: 450+hp VQ32DETT, ATTESA-Pro, motor-assisted spool up turbos, 6-speed paddle semi-automatic gearbox. V8 option ruled out since Nissan USA was found out to thought the GT-R was some kind of SUV vehicle...

Notes: By 2007, the new V36 Skyline will be ready for realease, just in time to co-incide with the release of the "Old" new GT-R... I think Carlos hasn't been honest with us...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29715-v35-skyline/#findComment-605959
Share on other sites
OKBANANA Grand Master

OKBANANA

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Since the introduction of the R34 Skyline GT-R in 1998, the question of whether the GT-R would survive the near future or not, was highly discussed in the automotive world - especially among Skyline enthusiasts. With the revelation of the GT-R Concept at the Tokyo Motor Show 2001, Nissan has finally ended these discussions. The radical GT-R Concept gives an impression of what the replacement of the Skyline GT-R (due 2004) might look like. If the car will still be called Skyline GT-R is not sure, yet, but chances are high the Skyline part of the name will be dropped and the car will simply be badged Nissan GT-R.

Thanks to computer games like Gran Turismo, the Skyline GT-R has become famous the world over during the past few years, so there is no more reason to reduce GT-R sales to domestic shores, only. Hence, Nissan finally plans to sell the car globally (maybe badged Infiniti in the US), in left-hand- and right-hand-drive form.

Radically different to the R34 GT-R, the GT-R Concept’s front facia appears impressive due to its width, but otherwise quite featureless. Narrow headlights flank each side of the body and blend into black cooling vents to the bottom, thus enhancing the impression of a wide and low body. Apart from the black grille and bumper assembly with its vast air intake openings, there is no distraction of the even body surface. Following the sweep of the wheel arch, the lights extend to the back, onto the long hood. Basically, what the face lacks is a definition of characteristic features instead of the current simple facia. The lights’ design is a nice feature, but I reckon the front could still use some more dedication to give it a more distinctive and balanced appearance.

Standing on huge wheels, the GT-R Concept’s side view is really pleasing, but still aggressive, with distinctive front-wheel arches that start off copying the hood’s lines and then abruptly descent into small side-vents, and rear-wheel arches reminiscent of those seen on the Aston Martin Vanquish. Similar to Nissan’s new Z-Car, the waist-line is rather high, leaving space for relatively narrow side windows only. The roof extends all the way back to the rear, which is dominated by the characteristic round tail-lights and wide exhaust pipes on either side below them - a little like a 1968 Corvette Stingray.

Nissan says, the stage of design is similar to that of the Z-Car when it was first introduced as a concept, so detail changes to the exterior are very likely. Hopefully Nissan won’t change too much.

The engine choice is still much of a speculation. Rumors vary between turbo-charged V6 and V8 or normally aspirated V8 (at least for international markets), which are expected to produce between 335hp and 450hp. Unfort-unately, the days of the fabulous RB26DETT appear to be counted, but at least the new car will continue to use ATTESA, the GT-R’s computer-controlled all-wheel-drive system. New for the coming GT-R will be variable damping control for the suspension and a paddle-shift six-speed gearbox.

The Concept is dominated by light-weight materials like aluminium and carbonfiber which will hopefully make it onto the production model. Thanks to its lower kerb weight and (hopefully) more power, the new GT-R should be even quicker than the current version.

Looking at the new V35 Sedans, one quickly notices they have lost all similarity with Skylines of the past, whereas the GT-R Concept keeps the round taillights, which had been the most easily identifiable trait of previous Skylines, and other mechanical features we had known from the Skyline GT-R so far. Keeping this in mind, simply badging the car Nissan GT-R seems quite paradox - Nissan think over it again! The GT-R has always been a Skyline…and should always be!

Just info bout GT-R... :headspin:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29715-v35-skyline/#findComment-605970
Share on other sites
Rezz Grand Master

Rezz

Posted
Posted
Just info bout GT-R... :headspin:

Where did you pull that article from Milk*? It sounds very outdated.

Oh, and the GT-R Concept vehicle from the '01 Tokyo Motor Show was just a enginless and drivetrainless mock-up. Like a pre-pre-prototype body/interior, with wheels on it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/29715-v35-skyline/#findComment-605994
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...