Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

like i say to everyone who comments my thread and wants to act like they know everything about the car. theres a number there for a reason CALL IT IF YOU ARE INTRESTED. and i never said a rebuild will cost two grand dunno were you pulled that from and compliance should cost about 2 grand and for the f**king 100th time call the number if your intrested coz anyone who would be would have done it and not commented the thread. cheers. and no i dont have nothing to hide with the car. im more then happy to show all paper work and receits to a SERIOUS buyer. and transcar in campbellfield imported this car down for me!

Edited by loky
  • Replies 76
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I understand what your saying Loky, but I think your replies are hurting any chance you have of selling this.

As a neutral outsider, I would'nt consider buying this because of the way you answer.

If you were more upfront and answered people questions in a thread you started rather than discussing it privately by pm indicates all is not well.

This may be a stupid question but if you actually complied this car yourself, wouldnt it sell infinitely quicker?

It may be your only choice, good luck anyway champ, just trying to help.

mate what your saying is right. but whats so hard about making a phone call if you have genuine intrest? there are no grey areas about this car. i am showing all paper work from the test report i got for the car when it was in japan to even giving my mechanics number to even speak to him about the car. and yes if i did get the complied it should sell quicker but at the same time im too jammed up financially to do that at this moment. but thanks for your asking atleast your not a smart ass like the other idiots. cheers buddy

Loky my advice is the fix it up properly and wait till end of the year or next year to sell if you really have to.

You never know, you might end up keeping once everything works.

thanks for the adivice mate. if it dosent sell in the next month and a halfor around there anyway i will be fixing it and keeping it. but till then i might as well leave it on the market.

for ten grand you can have the body of the car with no running gear. dont make me stupid offers

Sorry to butt in but those offers are not so stupid- 10 K is about right for that car as it is nothing special with mechanical problems, if it was so easy then do it your self and get the $20 k that you think it's worth , you can buy a mint Vspec series 2 these days for $23K! If you want to sell then be realistic and stop wasting peoples time.

you f**king ball brain! if i had the money to do it myself i would of dickhead! if you havent got anything good to say keep your comments to your self. ten grand is the price if you dont like it stay out of the thread!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...