Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Have the following for sale, still on the car can see running etc, made over 300kw on 18psi with current tune, most parts are brand new and have just been fitted within the last 2 months, can buy the whole lot or will separate.

located in Adelaide

- Garrett GT35 Turbo with 0.5 front cover (faster spool then 0.7) and 0.82 rear IW & Custom Braided lines oil restrictor and custom turbo drain etc $1850

- Tune Length stainless exhaust manifold $300

- 3.5 "Bell mouth dump front pipe $350 suit gt35 IW

- 3" Silicon Hard intake pipe & Pod Filter $100

- Trust Side mount intercooler (uses short piping and goes back into stock piping) $400

- Z32 AFM with plug $250

- SARD 850cc side feed injectors with clips and loom all soldered in $850

- Yellow Jackets coil packs $300 suit r33 series 2

- Apexi Power fc + Apexi Commander with 300kw tune $1450 suit r33

- BLITZ Sbc ID3 SPEC-S Electronic Boost Controller $400

- Nismo 400r Sideskirts suit r33 $300

- Cusco Coil Overs $800

- 18" x 9.5 Dtm rush wheels stretched 235's new tyres front, 255's 1/2 tread rear $1500

- Rda slotted rotors & QFM-k750 hight temp pads $450

- Nismo Fpr $120

Edited by FOOLBOOST
  • 2 weeks later...

still got injectors,, would they fir rb20det?

yes, they are side feed so no they wont, come with collars o-rings, fuel rail, loom etc bolt in

Hey mate got 200 for the coilpacks if u will take that if so pm me cheers

Tell him hes dreamin

Are the brakes front, back or both??

Brakes are complete set of front and back discs and pads used for 2months

Hey mate, i need new coils, how do these compare to Splitfires? Obviously a fair bit cheaper so i assume they are not as good? Or is that a mistake...

Edited by nelly
Hey mate, i need new coils, how do these compare to Splitfires? Obviously a fair bit cheaper so i assume they are not as good? Or is that a mistake...

Same as Spitfires ask Performance Wise who sells them

Edited by FOOLBOOST

Xmas specials

- Garrett GT35 Turbo with 0.5 front cover (faster spool then 0.7) and 0.82 rear IW & Custom Braided lines oil restrictor and custom turbo drain etc

Also comes with new 19psi actuator, and hks alloy hard out let elbow to suit. $1700

- Trust Side mount intercooler (uses short piping and goes back into stock piping) $350

- Z32 AFM with plug $200

- SARD 850cc side feed injectors in rail with clips and loom all soldered in $750

- Yellow Jackets coil packs $280 suit r33 series 2

- Apexi Power fc + Apexi Commander with 300kw tune $1300 suit r33

- BLITZ Sbc ID3 SPEC-S Electronic Boost Controller $350

- Nismo 400r Sideskirts suit r33 $200

- Rda slotted rotors & QFM-k750 hight temp pads $400

Edited by FOOLBOOST

will the gt35 turbo bolt upto the standard manifold?

It might actually as has the smaller comp cover, havent tried it as using that low mount manifold if it didnt could always use a 10-12mm spacer. Will put more pics up today.

hey mate pic's of side skirts please?

post-31991-1261964562_thumb.jpg post-31991-1261964572_thumb.jpg post-31991-1261964582_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
×
×
  • Create New...