Jump to content
SAU Community

Replaced Stock Dump Pipe

Ty1

By Ty1,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

Ty1 Experienced

Ty1

Posted
Posted

hey guys. today I ended up replacing the stock dump pipe with a 3inch stainless steel pipe. While I was in the process of removing the old pipe I accidentally snapped two of the 13mm bolts on the back of the turbo :D Thankfully It was the top two bolts so I should be able to squeeze my little pistol drill in there without removing the turbo. I was just wondering what size drill bit I'd be best off using to drill the snapped bolts out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/301589-replaced-stock-dump-pipe/
Share on other sites
Ty1 Experienced

Ty1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ended up buying some screw extractors. I don't know if that's what an 'easy-out' is but they didn't work at all. I ended up snapping one but luckily managed to get it out of the hole i'd drilled. After getting fed up with trying to get the 2 snapped bolts out i made a few calls and ended up taking the turbo to Edsway Engineering over at coopers plains. I can't speak highly enough of the guy that works there. Not only was he on holidays and came in just for me but it only cost me $20 to extract the 2 bolts out and re-thread the holes. The addy is 20/248 musgrave rd, coopers plains for anyone interested. And is it just me or is it friggin hard to bolt the oil and coolant lines back to the turbo? I must of spent at least an hour trying to line everything up.

Slow S13 Proficient

Slow S13

Posted
Posted
Ended up buying some screw extractors. I don't know if that's what an 'easy-out' is but they didn't work at all. I ended up snapping one but luckily managed to get it out of the hole i'd drilled. After getting fed up with trying to get the 2 snapped bolts out i made a few calls and ended up taking the turbo to Edsway Engineering over at coopers plains. I can't speak highly enough of the guy that works there. Not only was he on holidays and came in just for me but it only cost me $20 to extract the 2 bolts out and re-thread the holes. The addy is 20/248 musgrave rd, coopers plains for anyone interested. And is it just me or is it friggin hard to bolt the oil and coolant lines back to the turbo? I must of spent at least an hour trying to line everything up.

That totally blows

Dan_B Mentor

Dan_B

Posted
Posted

Thats pretty good for a business to do that.

I have "Rigid" brand screw extractors, never found a snapped bolt they couldn't remove, cost me a fortune for the set but they are worth it in the end of the day.

Best way to solve the problems with those oil lines? braided lines!

R334door Experienced

R334door

Posted
Posted

Yep the oil and water lines can be a bitch to put back on, hopefully you put thte copper washes back in to otherwise they will end up leaking if they already havent.Next time get some freeze spray in a can (and put it on first before you even undo any of the nuts) similar to inox/wd40 it freezes the bolt or stud so shrinking it slightly and to 'crack' (Not literally) the join, then it gets down into the thread to then act a a lube, its good guys only about $15 a can from auto places.

Ty1 Experienced

Ty1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey I've just started up my car since putting the turbo back on and the new dump pipe and there seems to be a bit of steam/smoke coming from the turbo area. i got a new gasket for the turbo flange to dump pipe and just reused the gasket from the turbo to exhaust manifold as it seemed in good condition. I reconnected all the oil and water lines properly so im wondering where this smoke could be coming from? Im afraid to start it up again now

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • davemoto63
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By davemoto63 · Posted

    • davemoto63
      My new to me M35 Stagea wagon

      By davemoto63 · Posted

      Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...