Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

here is the updated list of all the parts i have left to save confusion only the parts listed below are still available for sale and prices have also been lowered again

brand new australian tein coilovers to suit r32 gtr same as these CLICKY CLICKY brand new never EVER taken out of the box parts easilly available for these and can be easilly repaired rebuilt unlike jap models etc etc$1500 FIRM

used current model silver hks turbo timer with loom to plug into r32 and 33/s13/s14/s15? $100 with loom in near new condition

used japanese made nismo boost guage with digital exhaust temperature in the middle an awesome guage with the little controller box an older type of guage i know the boost works fine but not sure about the egt as i never ever drove the car to see if it worked correctly but i know it did work as far as i tested it if that makes sense $130

enkei RP01 wheels 17x9 22 offset all round no tyres wheels are 110% straight as i have had these all tested with centre caps a few scratches would be awesome awesome light as fck wheels with some paint currently silver $1000 no tyres

riverside/zepter wheels 3 piece forged polished 17x9.5 17 offset NO GUTTER MARKS NO SCRATCHES PERFECT 4 brand new 255/40 tyres new valvestems all fitted and balanced ready to go all centrecaps and wheelnut cover plates (even have a few spares) $2100 very tough lightweight wheels

may seperate tyres and sell wheels if the right offer is made

nardi jap steering wheel the real deal inc horn button slight wear where right hand goes pretty normal $180

used hks pod filters and cast alloy adaptors and brackets to suit gtr $140

HKS evc 3 boost controller worked fine when removed complete with solenoid etc $270

brand new momo race 3000 steering wheel in the box $210

brand new alpine cd/mp3 headunit with usb capability CDA-9884E $270

free postage included in the asking price for most small items

please check my older topic for pictures if youre interested or i can try and email you pics if you request via pm... postage is no problem on smaller items happy to package larger items if you want to organise the freight yourself

located in toowoomba qld 1 hr west of brissy

Edited by WHITE R32

understandable but as stated above

please check my older topic for pictures if youre interested or i can try and email you pics if you request via pm...

momo wheel has now been sold

prices are negotiable on most items and free postage still applies to smaller items

heres a pic with and without the centrecaps

doesnt show the dish a heap but you get the idea... very nice wheels and quite light for such a large wheel

the car is quite high which doesnt help the look

post-1868-1263036515_thumb.jpg

Edited by WHITE R32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
    • Literally looks like direct port nitrous haha
    • They are in fact just nozzles. They are there only to produce a spray pattern and limit flow. The injector itself is what I use to control flow to the 7x nozzles. My old system had no injector and only PWM the pump. This lead to a lot of inconsistencies, and poor atomization at low pressure when the pump was ramping up. 
×
×
  • Create New...