Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

nah mate, rear brakes are different,

Are you running sindle or twin piston calipers rear mate?

twin piston are R32

Single piston, last time i needed a set i took one of my pads into the local brake joint and they matched it up in their book.they were maxima ones or something like that.

Front brakes are SR turbo ones

This is where different models become confusing. Was yours a 20DE or 20E originally ?

I know that with my Maxima and other Nissans, that they received discs at the rears if it was ABS model, if it was turbo, etc.

Australian model Maxima's have never been released with drum brakes, we've always had discs all round as standard here, but imports are different obviously.

Assuming the Cefiro was released in a similar fashion I'd say it depends on weather it was factory ABS, turbo, and/or how brakes were changed if it was converted to turbo later on.

+ As far as i Remember, didn't they all have single piston brakes all round anyway?

You said twin pistons the same as R32s ... even the turbo models had single piston, even at the fronts.

I'll have a look at my trusty sales brochures I got from Japan when I get home.

Autech Editions might have used different calipers to match their turbo's and shit, dunno.

just been through the same shit, silvia pads are waaay different, got a bendix book at work, the exact match in shape is the db1144 but after buying them i found out the pad material is too thick, wouldnt let the caliper sit back in place, so would ask for the the thinner version(if possible) of those pads and go from there

they were matched to skyline 33 gts rear pads, but obviously the got a wider caliper for thicker pads

go here http://www.bendix.com.au/ProductCatalogue.aspx and select

nissan

skyline

1993-1999; r33(import) non turbo

theres a listing for ceffys but only for fronts and theres no pic

just been through the same shit, silvia pads are waaay different, got a bendix book at work, the exact match in shape is the db1144 but after buying them i found out the pad material is too thick, wouldnt let the caliper sit back in place, so would ask for the the thinner version(if possible) of those pads and go from there

they were matched to skyline 33 gts rear pads, but obviously the got a wider caliper for thicker pads

go here http://www.bendix.com.au/ProductCatalogue.aspx and select

nissan

skyline

1993-1999; r33(import) non turbo

theres a listing for ceffys but only for fronts and theres no pic

I hope I'm not insulting your intelligence here, but did you make sure to spread the pistons in the caliper with one of those tools?

Otherwise, I'd say GTS (non turbo) skylines sound like the correct pad considering they have drum brakes.

Edited by daisu

:P my bad. Now I get ya. What's that got to do with pads though ?

Aren't the handbrake setups the same as R32s and its just the cable which is different ?

OP, if you have too much trouble finding a fitting pad, it's a good excuse to just upgrade to something bigger and more common.

The skyline/cefiro/laurel rear brakes have disc brakes with an internal drum (handbrake).

The S13/14/15 have regular disc brakes with cable operation on the calipers for the handbrake.

The difference is the size and shape of the caliper has to be different to accommodate the change in shape of the rotors.

If the caliper is a different size/shape then obviously the pads will be different too.

  • 6 months later...

What would be the best upgrade for the ceffy rear if I was going 5 stud and to retain the disk/drum combo? 33 or...

Also would the handbrake cable need to be changed?

Sorry to hijack the thread :)

Edited by surfbum64

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...