Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys well been having this problem for a while really have no ide awhat it could be i have changed the coilpacks and plugs still have the same issue any idea what it could be? it almost sounds like what happens when u hit the speed limiter soo im really confused and is making me really angry also the car has a miss when idleing and is worse when its hot

any ideas?

Injector plugs dodgy?

Narrow it down to which cylinder by unplugging one injector at a time until the misfire doesn't change

yeh thinkin i might have to do that aye but if i do that and find out whihc one it is how can i fix it?

Elimination.

Say it's cyl #2

Swap the coil pack between #1 and #2 and see if the fault follows the coil pack. New coils can be faulty too.

If it doesn't, remove coil number 2 from its mounted position, put in any spark plug, earth the body with a jumper lead, disconnect injector number 2 (so you dont foul the existing plug) and start the motor. Identify if you have spark.

If you do have spark, the injector could be faulty or the wiring to the injector could be faulty.

If you do have spark, and the injector is firing, check the compression of the cylinder when the engine is cold and hot.

Narrow the fault down and come back with your results.

does it have any problem when cold? How many Km's has the car done? Like it is hitting the limiter? My car had a similar problem at one point around 40 000km mark. When accelerating hard it would be like it hit limiter and the tacho would sometimes jump around like crazy even at 3000rpm, it would also miss and carry on when hot, sometimes when cold anyway after about a month of trying to figure it out a light came on the dash i took it into work and got it put on the nissan consult, i had a code for the O2 senor (which has main effect when car is hot) so i replaced it and problem fixed. In short your problem maybe the O2 sensor starting to fail? maybe?? just a suggestion hope it helps

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...