Jump to content
SAU Community

Running semi slicks in the rain bad idea?


silviaz
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey all, I noticed on my car in the rain when I drive and if I give it a little bit of acceleration, the back end will start to kick out. Makes it dangerous as I can't merge onto an intersection safely, and if I give it too much gas my car will probably spin out. I know being rear wheel drive does affect things but was wondering how much of a difference semi slicks make compared to regular tyres? The research I did was mixed, saying semi slicks are more for drifting but the rep for the company said they can be used for both. I've also had a wheel alignment recently, and my tyres are near new. 

Edited by silviaz
  • Haha 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

What tyres are you calling semi slicks?

Semis on front and back, or just back?

In saying that, you need to drive to the conditions, be gentle on the throttle

Have another set of rims with "good" all seasons grippy tyres on them for inclement weather or when your just cruising around

Think about the people that you may crash into and possibly injure, or kill, if you "spin out" driving on a public road in the wet, also thinl about how effective your braking is on a wet road with semi slicks, this is why I don't run motorsport type tyres when it's wet on public roads, the risk is to high

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, The Bogan said:

What tyres are you calling semi slicks?

Semis on front and back, or just back?

In saying that, you need to drive to the conditions, be gentle on the throttle

Have another set of rims with "good" all seasons grippy tyres on them for inclement weather or when your just cruising around

Think about the people that you may crash into and possibly injure, or kill, if you "spin out" driving on a public road in the wet, also thinl about how effective your braking is on a wet road with semi slicks, this is why I don't run motorsport type tyres when it's wet on public roads, the risk is to high

It's all 4 tyres, they are these type tyres https://valinotyres.com.au/products/greeva-08d - so from what I've gathered you recommend I change tyres to get tyres with a regular tread pattern?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, silviaz said:

It's all 4 tyres, they are these type tyres https://valinotyres.com.au/products/greeva-08d - so from what I've gathered you recommend I change tyres to get tyres with a regular tread pattern?

They are not semi-slicks, they seem to be a cheap long life tyre with some marketing 

They have a 380 tread wear rating

The RS4"s on my SS have a 200 tread wear and are OK in the wet if you don't drive like a pork chop

If they are that bad in the wet I would bin them

I cannot see them actually being really good in the dry with that high of a tread wear rating, the RE003's on my Yaris would probably be better than them with a tread wear of 220

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, silviaz said:

It's all 4 tyres, they are these type tyres https://valinotyres.com.au/products/greeva-08d - so from what I've gathered you recommend I change tyres to get tyres with a regular tread pattern?

Not a semi slick, they are a long life drift tyre. Marketing hype.

7 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Who the f**k are Valino Tyres?

Run something decent, like AD09, RS4, etc. Something with ~180TW is good for the street without being too sketchy in the wet. I flog my car in the wet.

You also need a proper LSD.

Japanese drift tyre company.
The above listed are quality Semi Slicks and are great in wet weather.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, The Bogan said:

They are not semi-slicks, they seem to be a cheap long life tyre with some marketing 

They have a 380 tread wear rating

The RS4"s on my SS have a 200 tread wear and are OK in the wet if you don't drive like a pork chop

If they are that bad in the wet I would bin them

I cannot see them actually being really good in the dry with that high of a tread wear rating, the RE003's on my Yaris would probably be better than them with a tread wear of 220

Ah ok, not sure why they say semi slicks on the website, the tread pattern looks like it? But yeah even if I give it a bit too much gas (which is not much) the back end will slide. I have to very carefully work my way up to speed. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, robbo_rb180 said:

Not a semi slick, they are a long life drift tyre. Marketing hype.

Japanese drift tyre company.
The above listed are quality Semi Slicks and are great in wet weather.

Great in wet weather you mean for sliding or as in grip well in wet weather?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, Watermouse said:

Do you have a recommendation for a shop that does a good job of installing LSDs in our gtt around Sydney/Newcastle?

I've taken my cars/diffs to Smithfield Gearbox & Diff and my mates to there too.

They know their Nissan shitboxes inside out 

Smithfield Diff & Gearbox

(02) 9604 8887

https://g.co/kgs/vtFyF8

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 10/27/2023 at 7:01 PM, silviaz said:

Hey all, I noticed on my car in the rain when I drive and if I give it a little bit of acceleration, the back end will start to kick out. Makes it dangerous as I can't merge onto an intersection safely, and if I give it too much gas my car will probably spin out. I know being rear wheel drive does affect things but was wondering how much of a difference semi slicks make compared to regular tyres? The research I did was mixed, saying semi slicks are more for drifting but the rep for the company said they can be used for both. I've also had a wheel alignment recently, and my tyres are near new. 

Lots of good comments in this thread, I'll just throw this bit on top. 

With semi's in the rain, there are a few things to think about - 

* Getting temperature into the tyres is really important for making semi's hook up. Driving in the rain on a cold winter night will be very different to driving in the rain on a hot summers day. 

* Semi's wear fast, tread depth has a big impact on how well they will hook up in the wet. Semi's don't have sipes so they need all the tread depth they can get to help evacuate the water. 

* Not all semi's will work in the rain, regardless of temp/tread depth. Think Ventus Z214 vs Nankang NS2R. If you want to use them in the rain, I'd want to get some real world examples of them working in the wet first. 

I've used Nankang NS2R 120TW year round in wet/dry conditions, in the rain on a hot summers day up here in QLD, it's a fantastic tyre. The best tyre I've driven on in the rain. I could actually put power down which amazed me. 

On a cold day in the wet, they couldn't get enough temp into them to become optimal, however I wouldn't say they were dangerous. Think closer to a shitty street tyre rather then death trap lol. 

I'd also say go with the advice above, get a set of good street tyres, something around Michelin Pilot Sport 4S quality level. Once you start making more power, you could consider going to semi's if you think the cost/performance ratio makes sense.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Lots of good comments in this thread, I'll just throw this bit on top. 

With semi's in the rain, there are a few things to think about - 

* Getting temperature into the tyres is really important for making semi's hook up. Driving in the rain on a cold winter night will be very different to driving in the rain on a hot summers day. 

* Semi's wear fast, tread depth has a big impact on how well they will hook up in the wet. Semi's don't have sipes so they need all the tread depth they can get to help evacuate the water. 

* Not all semi's will work in the rain, regardless of temp/tread depth. Think Ventus Z214 vs Nankang NS2R. If you want to use them in the rain, I'd want to get some real world examples of them working in the wet first. 

I've used Nankang NS2R 120TW year round in wet/dry conditions, in the rain on a hot summers day up here in QLD, it's a fantastic tyre. The best tyre I've driven on in the rain. I could actually put power down which amazed me. 

On a cold day in the wet, they couldn't get enough temp into them to become optimal, however I wouldn't say they were dangerous. Think closer to a shitty street tyre rather then death trap lol. 

I'd also say go with the advice above, get a set of good street tyres, something around Michelin Pilot Sport 4S quality level. Once you start making more power, you could consider going to semi's if you think the cost/performance ratio makes sense.

Yep that's the one I'm thinking of getting, cheers mate! Great info there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 215/45/18 tyres are probably a little on the low side compared to the factory tyre, it should be closer to a 245/45/19, which will get you about an extra 11mm of height, and should make you speedo read a bit closer to reality. 245/45/19s will be a bit too far the other way and you risk a speeding ticket as your speedo might read slower than your actual speed.  245/40/19s would be correct if you are going to 19in rims, they will give you a similar total diameter to the 245/45/18 tyres.  
    • That's something I forgot to put in my list. The aggressive anti-squat in R32 is a f**king menace. I still need to decide if I'm going to drag the subframe out of my car and weld in the GKTech corrector kit. The main reason to dither is the need to switch to spherical joints in the lower arm to account for the twist induced in the rear pivot caused by lowering the front pivot. And yes...we do put better subframes in R32s, and I wish I'd gotten an S14 one instead of an A31 when I did the "take off and nuke it from orbit" HICAS delete all those years ago.
    • I have been looking at some setting on the alarms for the Q60 and what buttons do and so and also been looking for details on the alarm in my V37 which is a standard issue with the car. settings like window roll up and a few others seem to not work at all. i cant seem to find exact info on V37 alarms so Q60 is all i can really go off i have not tried 400Z alarm settings or info yet so that will be next. any one got like a sheet of info on the alarm system in the V37 as all my documents are in japanese but i thought the system would basically be like standard through similar models? 
    • I had a fuel smell coming from the drivers rear and pulled the tank out to inspect where it was coming from, turns out the breather hose from the tank to the filler neck was perished. I’m going to Japan next week and I’ll grab it while I’m there  pulled the oil tank apart and started cleaning this crap out of it, some brake cleaner and rags got it looking new again 
    • Hmm. Was quite a few years ago now. I think I bought from a crowd in the US called CDT Audio. The speaker is the HD-6. The HD-6CF would have been the better option (based on T-S parameters), but they were discontinued in 4 ohm at that point in time. The HD-6 is a better driver in almost every other way (than the CF) - just not as good in IB. They still do the HD-6. They might even have a more suitable (for IB) option here.https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/components/woofers/midwoofers/midwoofers.htm But, here's the rub. I was working in the US a lot back then, so I got them delivered to my US office and then just brought them back to OZ myself. I don't know if they will ship to OZ, and it probably wouldn't be great cost-wise anyway. As to results. They're driven direct off the rear channels of my headunit, because the headunit can be setup to run the rears as subs. So, not a lot of power being fed there. Nevertheless, there's no shortage of volume - the sub levels don't need or want to be boosted at all. The bass is definitely not what you would call "tight". It is definitely a bit delayed compared to a proper sub. But, with the great front soundstage and really good 6.5" woofers in the front doors, I'm getting most of the bass detail from the front and the rear is really only to extend the bottom end a bit. Works for what I'm doing. I mean - until recently you couldn't really hold a conversation in my car due to the fuel pump, and for many years I had tyres so noisy (Kumho KU36 at <50 tread depth) that I had to drive with earplugs anyway!
×
×
  • Create New...