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OS GIKEN R200 1.5 way LSD centre

3x2 modified S15 shafts x2 to suit auto housing 3.9:1

$500

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Blitz Neo 525cc injectors

Direct fit - Inc. fuel rails spacers

$600

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Blits R32 GTST frp vented bonnet

ADR compliant - In gel coat

$500

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Silvia LHS front guard - RED

good condition - slight scratch

$100

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Sparco Fixed back - Red

good condition

$300

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Sabelt 4 point harness

Good condition

$100

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SR20 startor motor

$80

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SR20 alternator

$80

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Stagea precedeo lowered springs

$150

S13 R180 diff, halfshafts and tailshaft for manual SR20

$200

Sam 0423 648 114

Gold Coast

Edited by RED513

Oil cooler - Sparco seat - OS diff - Alternator - Injectors SOLD

Blits R32 FRP bonnet $500

Sabelt harness - red 4 point - $100

2x Securon harness - black 4 point - $150 for both

SR20 startor $100

R180 diff - halfshafts - tailshaft $150

Silvia 1/4's - $50 for both

Sr20 AFM's - S13/S14/S14a $50 each

CA18DET

Complete Head - R/c's, Cams and pulleys - $300

Intake manifold - $120

Exhaist manifold - $80

AFM $50

Edited by RED513

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  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
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