Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Make/Model: HR31 GTS-X Coupe

Year: 1987

Kilometers: 114 XXX

Transmission type: Manual

Engine: R34 GTT RB25DET Neo

Colour: Black over Silver

Modifications: RB25DET Neo, Greddy Type LS FMIC, 3 Inch exhaust (Stainless front pipe, 3 inch highflow cat & muffler), Nistune Chipped ECU, HDi SBC-D Boost controller with Gauge, Z32 AFM, 550cc Injectors, GCG XTRGTST-STG1 Custom Turbocharger (uses a ball-bearing GT30 core inside standard RB25 housings) on heat-wrapped exhaust mani, Xtreme 5 puck clutch, Bosch 040 Intank fuel pump, Catch can, Gates radiator hoses, Apexi pod filter, 16inch thermo, standard R200 longnose LSD which is very tight. 16" Volk rims with good tread.

Roadworthy Certificate: Yes

Registered: Yes, until March 22nd.

Accident History: None that I know of, all panels line up etc and paint is original.

Asking Price: $7500 FOR 2 WEEKS ONLY

Location: Perth, NOR (Near Hillarys)

Contact Details: Call Hayden on 0422 903 269 , here or [email protected]

Other Comments: Selling due to some financial mishaps in my life, As well as loss of interest. this sale is alot sooner than I would have liked and I had many more plans in store for her. Basically I bought the car about 1.2yrs ago, completely stocko. All the mods were done while I owned it, and many thousands were spent modding it.

The engine was bought from another member on the r31skylineclub.com forum, and has performed flawlessly since i have owned it. The engine setup its running is fairly unique, so I will try to explain best I can on here: Its an RB25DET neo Engine, running the aforementioned turbocharger, with an R33 GTST (deletes TCS) inlet manifold + matching loom, and running the show is a Nistune Equipped R32 GTST Ecu. I wanted to build a car that did not look heavily modified from the outside, and drove & behaved as close to a stock rb-powered skyline as possible. This is why I went to such lengths to collect all these parts to produce this package. The wiring loom was professionally modified so it would simply Plug into the HR31 body plugs, and ALL ELECTRICS work!

VCT is fully operational, and is controlled by a custom RPM window switch I had made in the USA, switches VCT on at 1500 RPM and off at 4700RPM.

The body is in fairly good condition for its age, has 2 small dents and paint is showing its age a little. Interior is in good condition also. Has a pioneer MP3 head unit with pioneer splits in the front and kenwood 6x9s in the rear parcel shelf.

I bought the car with 107XXX Kilometers on it, and all mods except the exhaust were done in the last 5000 k's.

She produced a healthy 305rwhp on 13psi on its initial tune, its heading back to the Dyno in Monday the 15th of Feb for a final tune. hoping for over 320rwhp, Can provide documents. I ran it down the strip once when I first got it, back with the old NICS RB20 and managed a PB of 14.5. Hasn't been back (or anywhere really) with the new setup. Engine has just been fully serviced with Penrite 15w50 Semi-synth, new filters, new coolant & new plugs. Its been done 3 times since I have had the new engine in.

Currently has a ECUTalk consult display installed, latest version, will only part with this for an extra $250. Think thats everything, please feel free to CALL for more info.

TEXT MESSAGES WILL BE IGNORED, DONT PUT 25c INTO MR TELCO'S POCKET FOR NOTHING!!!

Pics:

PS: Standard strut brace included, just doesnt clear engine cross over pipe (by about 2 mm), and plese excuse the red silicon joiner, it was temporary, is now gone.

hr31_front.jpg

hr31_side.jpg

hr31_back.jpg

hr31_ddoor.jpg

hr31_dash.jpg

hr31_frontseats.jpg

hr31_backseats.jpg

hr31_eng2.jpg

hr31_eng.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/307263-wa-fs-hr31-gts-x/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...