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Wanted R31 Lower Control Arms & Steering Arms

Daewoo

By Daewoo,
in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

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Daewoo Enthusiast

Daewoo

Posted
Posted

Is it correct that R30 Skyline Lower Control Arms don't have replaceable ball joints???

I have a couple of R30 ones that I need to get lengthened to give me 2 1/2 degrees negative camber. I stuffed the boot for the balljoint seperating the steering arms.

I have now been told that the ball joints aren't replacable, so what I need to do is graft the outer end of an R31 lower control arm onto the inner end of an R30 one.

Anyone got a couple of R31 LCAs lying around that they would like to donate to a purebred race car like only an MR30 Hatch. can be???

Apparently R31 Steering Arms are good as well as they are shorter and therefore speed up the rack, if anyone has some...

Cheers,

Daewoo

warps Mentor

warps

Posted
Posted
Buy new R30 arms for about $70

And lengthen them each time he wants to replace the ball joints?

Hey, Daewoo. Are you going to rose joint the inner end too? In that case, you don't need to graft the inner end off the R30 arm onto the R31 arm. That will give you fine adjustability in the length (to the tune of about +/- 5mm to be safe). Just put a big fkoff motorsport bearing in there (3/4" works well - wouldn't go too much smaller). Might need a sleeve for the inner pivot though.

Daewoo Enthusiast

Daewoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Buy new R30 arms for about $70

I guess $70 isn't too bad, but still almost 33% of the value of the car :huh: ...

And lengthen them each time he wants to replace the ball joints?

Hey, Daewoo. Are you going to rose joint the inner end too? In that case, you don't need to graft the inner end off the R30 arm onto the R31 arm. That will give you fine adjustability in the length (to the tune of about +/- 5mm to be safe). Just put a big fkoff motorsport bearing in there (3/4" works well - wouldn't go too much smaller). Might need a sleeve for the inner pivot though.

No rose jointing or anything, I don't need it to be adjustable... after years of cars with adjustable suspension, my experience is, I, and most people never adjust it anyway once they get to a setting they like... I like the idea of grafting an R31 LCA on if that would allow me to change balljoints when needed... I would probably be happy with just a new boot for the balljoints that I screwed... the ball joints both seemed OK...

Cheers,

Daewoo

warps Mentor

warps

Posted
Posted

Correct - no adjustment needed after you set it up to your liking. However, unless you jag it, or know from previous experience, how will you know when it's right? It took me about 3 changes to finally get the front end of the RX2 the way I liked it. After that it was set and forget tho, and I totally agree with you there.

Sounds like a moot point anyway - doesn't sound like a big budget track weapon you're building there.

Do you mean the rubber boot that goes over the ball joint? You can buy them in assorted sizes from any parts store, or a suspension specialist for more precise fitting sizes.

Daewoo Enthusiast

Daewoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Correct - no adjustment needed after you set it up to your liking. However, unless you jag it, or know from previous experience, how will you know when it's right? It took me about 3 changes to finally get the front end of the RX2 the way I liked it. After that it was set and forget tho, and I totally agree with you there.

Sounds like a moot point anyway - doesn't sound like a big budget track weapon you're building there.

Do you mean the rubber boot that goes over the ball joint? You can buy them in assorted sizes from any parts store, or a suspension specialist for more precise fitting sizes.

I appreciate the info, and I will see if I can get just the boot...

You are right, this isn't any big budget racer... I have a $30K Pulsar Rally Car sitting unused 'cause I don't have the money to move it forward, and it isn't worth anything to sell... this is the $500 beater that needs to take a kicking and keep asking for more :cheers: ...

Daewoo

warps Mentor

warps

Posted
Posted

More info on the pulsar please :P

FWD or GTiR?

Trying to find a new rally car is proving very difficult. Am even considering going to the "dark side" (FWD) as good RWD cars are very thin on the ground, and generally overpriced (seems all the cashed up midle aged rally nuts are reliving their glory days and paying top dollar for all the old classic RWD rally cars :P )

Daewoo Enthusiast

Daewoo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
More info on the pulsar please :(

FWD or GTiR?

Trying to find a new rally car is proving very difficult. Am even considering going to the "dark side" (FWD) as good RWD cars are very thin on the ground, and generally overpriced (seems all the cashed up midle aged rally nuts are reliving their glory days and paying top dollar for all the old classic RWD rally cars :P )

I thought that must be you from BMSC... can't be too many 'warps' around...

N15 - i.e. FWD only.

I bought it as a rally only import it in '97 after I won the under 2L 2WD state champs in my 1600...

GoodCar.jpg

$8000 at the time for a damaged front and rear 1500 Auto was a good price, imagine what you could get for that money now :P

Converted it to an Aus delivered 2L manual, but then was convinced by Lee Petersen that I had to use a U13 Bluebird gearbox which turned into an engineering nightmare... meant changing the uprights, also had to change the rear hubs, spacers machined, gearbox mounts all moved, driveshafts shortened, now the steering is all f^cked up because the steering arms in the front hubs are much longer... and you can't get an LSD for it, which you could for the smaller standard GB...

Finally got it all going and blew up the engine first khanacross... trying to use the 1500 radiator... bought and fitted a new engine but haven't had it tuned again... Wife, kids, mortgage and long work hours just mean nothing ever gets done...

It does have Autoronics, Proflex and a log booked Chrome Moly Cage built by Hyundai Ralysport before they closed down...

These days don't have the money to use it (wouldn't be any good for much other than rallying i.e. fast but not sideways for fun, and rallying is just too expensive these days), so can't be bothered spending the last few $1000 it would take to get it ready for competition...

It owes me a shedload of cash and costs me nothing to keep in the mates chook shed, so I don't see the sense in selling it for a pitance which is all a 95% complete, untested, undeveloped, unproven car would fetch...

BadCar.jpg

You are right about all the RWD cars getting silly money... and even if you buy one, the cost of parts is silly... that is why I like the R30... IRS so it gets good traction, all the right Datsun driveability and reliability (unlike the R31s I play against in the State Khanacross Championships), and cheap as chips... only thing is, when I was playing with Datsuns, everyone had bits they would give and swap, and the wreckers had heaps of cars to give stuff away to competition guys... now days, I don't have those sorts of contacts....

The excel series seems like a good thing, but it will only be a matter of time before someone starts throwing 10s of thousands at it like the did with the Gemini Series and f^ck it for everyone...

Cheers,

Daewoo

Ghostrider Grand Master

Ghostrider

Posted
Posted
I bought some Dr30 Balljoints from datsport...Came in the Mail yesterday

Ummmmmm ................ how you do that?

The ball joint in R30 lower control arms is pressed in & not replaceable and the only replacement Datsport does is for C210.

What did you get for your money?????

D

warps Mentor

warps

Posted
Posted

Why is the DR30 BJ non replaceable? Is it because it's press in, or some other reason? All the early RX Mazdas had press in ball joints, and these are readily available. I would think that if you can press the old joint out of the arm, then you would be able to fit a new joint.

Daewoo - yeh I've been struggling with what sort of rally car to get. I don't want an AWD, as then I'd have no excuse for being slow. I sold the RX2 through frustration at trying to keep a nearly 40 year old car reliable, although I actually had it running very well by the time I sold it. That's why I was toying with building a GTSt. I had thought of a Silvia, but they are becoming more common, and within a few years I think they'll be like 1600's.

Thing is, to build a GTST will cost me near on $30k (by the time I use good quality stuff) and for that money, I can buy a very competitive EvoRex.

At the moment, a tarmac car appeals, and I'm giving serious consideration to an FD RX7. These are a great starting point, and for minimal mods are almost unbeatable on a race track. The guy I bought the RX2 from built an FD rally car (which now resides in Cairns) and that thing is a weapon on dirt too.

Decisions, decisions.

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