Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've searched the forum and found some older posts but they're somewhat contradictory.

I'm looking for a certain car and they're rare as hens teeth in Oz. I think they might also be rare in Japan but there's definately a few getting around in the UK.

I'm getting confused reading the govie site and at the moment it looks as though it may be easier to bring one in from England than Japan as the compliancing may be easier (the same type of car sold here). I heard about a mini recently brought in that just had to have window glass changed because of the lack of aussie standards stickers.

Can any of the compliance garages do a one off import?

Any thoughts, ideas?

Edited by Houdini

Its been discussed before. The shipping would be more but thats about it.

As for easier compliance, most cars coming in dont really seem to need much done to them for compliance. The costs actually relate to how much money the workshop has made back since getting the compliance plates. You should find a workshop that can do the compliance and discuss how much it will cost before you make any decisions.

By the way, any car that has been imported into Japan from Europe will be exactly the same as the European models, so I wouldn't rule out looking in Japan.

Edited by BigWillieStyles

ok a few pointers:

you said this car is "rare as hen's teeth" in aus - hen's technically don't have "teeth" per say. they have a beak which basically combines the use of lips, teeth, nostrils, and tongue all into one. they use this beak to pick up and break down grain, seeds and grind up into a fine dust for their consumption. much the same as a rooster, pictured below.

rooster.jpg

in short - there isn't actually any such thing as Hen's Teeth at all.

now that we've got that cleared up - the rest of your question is indeed a wild one. obviously this part of the post is best left to someone more knowledgeable of imports than someone who knows the intricacies of feathered game birds.

what i can tell you is:

importing from the UK is exactly the same process as importing from japan.. they still get put onto a boat and flown here into australia on the flying boat machine.

my question is - and i'm pretty sure the importer will want to know this as well - is, what car are you looking to import? because from your description it seems they sold the car here in aus, if that's the case - you can't import it bro... unless you personally import it

my question is - and i'm pretty sure the importer will want to know this as well - is, what car are you looking to import? because from your description it seems they sold the car here in aus, if that's the case - you can't import it bro... unless you personally import it

Ahhhh, there it is :cheers:

This does ring a bell with me. Can't be done because it was available here. So it's buckle up and wait until one of the 19 choose to sell. Dammit.

ok a few pointers:

you said this car is "rare as hen's teeth" in aus - hen's technically don't have "teeth" per say. they have a beak which basically combines the use of lips, teeth all into one. they use this beak to pick up and swallow the grain, seeds and grind up into a mush in their gizzard then into their stomach for their consumption. much the same as a rooster, pictured below.

fixed... get your facts right eps.... :cheers:

nostrils are separate from the beak. they also have tounges, separate from the beak

all is good but fowls swallow their seeds, psittacines are the ones that smash them up.

and to keep it on topic. london is a nice city. it has nice cars

yeah man - what's the worst that could happen?

=D

i'm really curious... if it's a japanese car - and it was sold domestically - then how could it have only sold a volume of 19 or so? if that's actually the case - are you SURE it was sold domestically and people aren't just importing from japan?

...wait... i know what it is...

:P

....a dragon.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...