Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Some weeks ago I attempted to install a keyless entry system into my car. After failing and deciding I'd probably need some professional help on the matter, I left the drivers side inner door lining off. With all the rain lately, I've now got an issue where water is driping down inside the door.

Now are these two things connected? As in by having the inside door lining off, it's somehow affected the outside seals and letting in water? Or as I suspect, I've actually always had this leak but am only aware of it due to having the door lining off and seeing the water directly. In the past there were a few occasions where I'd smell a very damp musky kind of smell when first getting into the car in the morning. Even a little condensation on the windscreen, but I never really thought much of it. But now, it's clear to me there is a problem and I don't know what to do.

I also found a piece of plastic with felt on it, sitting at the very bottom of my door when I first took the lining off. Somethings not quite right as often when I use the power windows, the window jerks quite a bit when it first starts moving. And it's a side to side movement, which shows the window isn't as snug as it should be. I've included some pics of this plastic thing. Maybe that's the key to everything.

Hoping someone here knows a little about what I've mentioned and can help out.

img0365tn.jpg

img0366tn.jpg

img0368tn.jpg

ok i have no idea about the thing pictured, but as for the water, that isn't that uncommon. the reason being that water runs down the window and the seal at the bottom of the window isn't always water tight so some will get past and then run down the inside of the door. i think there are holes at the bottom of the door that will allow the water out.

  • 3 weeks later...

An update on this. I've found where this "mystery" plastic thing should be located on the door. All this time I was looking inside the door and other places, and the location of where it lived was right at the top of the door. Not having this piece in place, I can see there's a noticeable gap between the top seal and glass from the window. This should explain a little why the door leaks so much when raining. Looking at the other 2 located in the door, it's obvious mine is actually broken. So will have to locate another, or worse case scenario glue this one in.

img0199tn.jpg

img0200tn.jpg

img0201tn.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...