Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so judging by the graph with the 3 turbo setups compared, the 3071r doesn't appear to be that much laggier then the smaller t518z correct? if i read correct then the gt3071r comes on roughly 500rpm later, and with less torque earlier aswell? Also i thought the t518z is only becomes efficient or to its full potential when you start pushing ~20psi+, would that effect the lag but push power outputs closer to the 250kw mark? i know all this depends on supporting mods but just asking as an idicator. Also status, you wouldn't be able to have a std sr20 with a gtrs / 2871r 52t would you?. to compare it with the t518z with power and torque, as i heard the t518z makes more torque and spools earlier then a gtrs? but the gtrs being BB? From your graphs, im starting to lean to the t518z, because i like the bulk amounts of torque early, but then again i question if i opted the 3071r route, with earlier cams? (256's) would that bring on boost and torque earlier?

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...