Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thought I'd start a new topic regarding my transplant as I'll update this as it all happens. So far I have the Supra box, CRS housing and now a 308 from a VB commodore that has a rear bowl sump. It has been rebuilt fairly stock apart from 40 thou bore. I've also purchased some L34 heads and a 286 cam from a friend who is doing an upgrade on his 308. I'll get it engineered with the stock motor first then bang on some extra goodies afterwards. I was thinking I'd have to use a forward bowl sump(VK style) but after a bit of measuring it looks like if I shift the motor back 40mm I'll clear the steering arm that runs parallel with the crossmember. Once my motor is out I'll have a better understading of this.

Any valuable info appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/310942-c210-308-transplant/
Share on other sites

The motor has arrived. 308 bored 40 thou, other than that pretty stock. But only untill it's engineered. I've already purchased some L34 heads and a 286 cam. In the next couple of days I'll purchase a 600 Holley Vac Secondaries and a set of HDT block hugger extractors.post-44326-1268297012_thumb.jpg

No FKN around, this I am guilty of. When i get an idea in my head I go like a bull at a red handkerchief party. I was going to take my time over the next 6 months, but WTF. I got a 650 holley Vac secondries today and the HDT extractors so the motor is really taking shape. Need to rip the L6 out now and have a trial fit.

Bty the way I really need some cheap arts. #1 being a oil switch( bit that screws into the left side of the block and # 2 being the thermostat sender thing just below the thermostat and has wires going to it which is for temp gauge. I have to adapt to the 308 and mine are sold with motor. Please help

You might struggle to fit any decent extractors in the engine bay with the steering box in there. A R&P conversion might make life easier.

I had a C110 with a P76 donk fitted, and it had some funky 3 piece header on the RH side to clear the steering box and extended sump (sump was heavily modded to clear the Xmember). It was a total pain to try and remove the exhaust. I started going down a twin turbo conversion for it, but sold the car before I actually did any fabrication.

That's cool - will be keen to see the finished product. I've seen other 240K's with v8's so obviously it's doable.

Thinking back it may have been the huge winged sump that made life difficult and not so much the steering box location.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Had a trial fitment today, and all looks good. Extracyors will fit neatly but I will have to get a forward facing sump. I may take mine to work and get it sliced and turned around, nuless I can find a VK one on the cheappost-44326-1270453041_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Naaa not that lucky. The 308 mounts are going to be custom and the gearbox mounts also custom. Iv'e adapted my alternator, temp sender and oil pressure sender so i can use my original wiring. Block hugger exhausts fit nicely and over motor fitment is like a factory made as my mechanic put it.

Motor and box are now a fixed item. Tail shaft will be done next week along with clutch assembly. Getting there. Overall it was an excellent fit. No probs with extractors, the gear shifter is about 1 1/2'' more forward than what the L series was but I may bend the stick a wee bit. Sits nice and low and bulk wieght is towards the fire wall.post-44326-1272018913_thumb.jpg

How long till she's a goer mate? Nice work buddy.

I will say sorry for the lack of faith and pushing you for an rb conversion. After recent thought, i have faith. This will be a beast! Bring on the youtube vids :-)

what will the rest of the exhaust be?

Datsun gear sticks come in an array of shapes. When I went to Z shop last I saw some of the sticks were straight, and some had bends in them. I don't know which model has which shape though... Hope you find something that suits.

post-44326-1272108197_thumb.jpg this pic is with the motor and box in. The front hasn't dropped any lower than when the L6 and webers were in it. I wieghed the motor on way bridge, 190kg without flywheel, carb and extractors. I'm hoping to have it running in about 3-5 weeks. Depends on the engineering and pits test. Better be off now as I'm of to see the Hudugurus, oh yeah!

Things done: Motor and box in. Tail shaft ( shortened and balanced in), new rear shoes and a new handbrake cable in, new dizzy in, all exhaust done. What's left to do i hear you thinking, yeah not much.

Radiator support needs doin, accelerator cable, hook up the MSD 6AL, heater hoses,windscreen squirty bottle, fuel line. Put oil and plugs in, "" THEN LIGHT FIRE"" Of course there is still to big red tapes to cut through, being the engineering and the pits ( test station). But the end is nigh.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...