Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 Series 2 parts : NEED TO CLEAN OUT THE GARAGE ! ! ! ! !

Bonnet $180 (light scratches NO dents or damage at all )

L/H Guard $110.

Front Bar With Indicators & Reo $250 (light scrape on L/H side)

Rear Bar With Reo $130.

Boot With Spoiler $160.

L/H Complete Door With Trim & Switches $200.

R/H Complete Door With Trim & Switches $200.

Head Lights $200 pair.

Rear Tail Lights $110 pair.

Radiator $120

Cluster 150,xxx $170.

Dash Surrounding With Switches $80.

Rear L/H & R/H corner plastics $40 each.

Side Skirts Pair $160 pair.

Rear Pods $100 pair.

Steering Wheel With Air Bag $130

Rear Cradle Assembly Including Diff, Hubs, Discs, Drive Shafts, etc. . . $350

Front K-Frame Assembly Including Steering Rack, Hubs, Discs, Lower Arms etc. . . $370

Turbo Charger Unit $250.

Prices are negotiable but please no stupid offers.

Contact Sel on 0432336944. Prefer to be contacted by phone call or msg on mobile.

Pics can be sent via request.

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...