Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ooooooooo i cant wait to see this thing in action again.. with the new front aero, and wheels that actually fill out the guards.. it looks like a proper jap time attacker.. well done fellas.

large1769.jpg

Acts as an air brake or spoiler into the corner but when you need some angle of attack for downforce in the corner especially a high speed corner it starts to flatten out and the car loses down force , hence the skittish rear end , , though of course the big horse power is to blame as well.

Hi Kimbod,

As mentioned by others in this thread, the car had an issue with the 4WD system which was contributing to the rear wheelspin on the day the video was shot.

We were at the test with Mark's team - we are Aeromotions' exclusive Australian and NZ distributors.

The change of wing angle from the high downforce braking setting to the high speed cornering position is intentional and the wing angle is adjustable.

The Aeromotions wing has it's own computer that controls the wing, and has inputs from the speed sensor and an accelerometer that detects g-force etc.

There are 4 adjustable wing angle settings on the Aeromotions R2.TWO wing:

1. Straightline setting

2. Braking setting

3. Low speed cornering setting

4. High speed cornering setting

Each of those 4 settings can be set to a different angle, so the aero can be dialled in for each setting with different wing angles for straightline, braking, low speed cornering and high speed cornering.

If you have a look at the video here ... http://www.tunersgroup.com/Videos/berry_ec_test_mar3.html

... the part shown at 3 mins 2 seconds into the video is of the braking area at the end of the straight as the car brakes for turn one, so what you are seeing in the early part of that shot is the wing in the high downforce braking angle setting.

In the later part of that shot, as Mark then gets off the brakes, the wing flattens out again, but the angle it flattens to (the high speed cornering angle) is also completely tunable and adjustable.

There is another good shot of the wing popping up into the high downforce braking position as the car passes under the bridge at 3 min 57 s.

You can see sequences of the wing flattening into a low drag straightline setting as it comes out of corners and onto straight sections at 4 min 3 s and 4 min 30 s in the video.

Many years ago in the late 60 / 70 when movable aero devices were still allowed in F1 ferrari did the same thing. The wing was operated by engine oil pressure . going fast , high oil pressure, flat wing, into corners revs drop angle of attack increases giving more downforce but since you are moving on the throttle all the time balancing the car the down force changing constantly in the corner making the car unbalanced.

Yes active aero has been used in a number of classes of racing over the years.

Unlike systems that change wing angle with throttle position, with the computer control of the Aeromotions Dynamic Wing the angle of the wing does not change constantly in the corner as the throttle angle changes.

large1771.jpg

As seen in the photo above, there are two electronic linear actuators that move the wing into different angles.

hope you get it to work cause it looks great

The video was the first test day with the new Aeromotions Dynamic Wing on the car, and we have 9 weeks until World Time Attack, so the aero will be well and truly dialled in by then.

Two weeks ago, Australian racer Duncan Forrest smashed the Class 4D lap record at Eastern Creek in his R35 GT-R with an Aeromotions Dynamic Wing by 1.3 seconds. The old record had stood since 2005. See ...

http://www.tunersgroup.com/TunerWire_Live/..._EC_record.html

The Aeromotions Dynamic Wings are a known quantity and are proven to cut lap times. They are used on a number of the world's top time attack cars including the Crawford Subaru WRX STi, AMS/NOS Energy Drink EVO X, and Cannonball R35 GT-R. More info about teams using the Aeromotions Dynamic Wings and the lap time improvements they have achieved can be found here ...

http://www.tunersgroup.com/Products/aeromotions.html

So there is no question that we will get the Aeromotions Dynamic Wing dialled in and working very well on Mark Berry's R34 for World Time Attack Challenge - getting things dialled in is exactly what test days are for.

- Adam

Edited by TheTunersGroup
just something i put together in a lunch break. Was too good not to go and film!

It's an awesome video Andrew - congratulations to you and your crew at Motive DVD on a job well done and some awesome footage that really captures just how fast these top level time attack cars are. :down:

- Adam

Edited by TheTunersGroup
Look at the vid and you can clearly see the 4wd system not working. When they get that problem sorted, then watch it haul ass. It will be a totally different car.

Spot on Lippo.

- Adam

Edited by TheTunersGroup

Awesome awesome car, can't wait to hear how it goes when its all dialled in.

If it does it will give them an overdue wake up call !!

What wake up call is this, and why do they deserve it? They have been doing an awesome job of setting near impossibly high bars time attack , definitely not being cocky about it at all as is evidenced by heading to Australia to take part in this event - they are obviously looking for the sport. They are well ahead of the game, though racing away from their home turf will no doubt narrow the gap a bit.

Good luck!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
    • To drain the Intake Heat Exchanger, there is a crappy drain plug in front of the driver's side front tyre: You should use the largest headed phillips screwdriver you had, and in my case I needed vice grips on the hose above as the plug was tight (tighter than it needed to be, since it has an o-ring seal).  After you have a tray down and open the drain, open the intake heat exchanger reservoir cap (drivers side one) and you should get a couple of litres of coolant To get to the radiator, you need to remove the plastic engine undertray. It is held on with a series of 10mm headed bolts and some clips. For the radiator, there is another type of crappy drain (kind of like a plastic banjo bolt) and you should attach a length of hose to direct the stream of coolant per this pic (otherwise the coolant hits the rad support and goes everywhere). The drain is on the rear of the radiator on the driver's side and a bit hard to find. Put a big tray or bucket down (5l won't be enough) and slowly unscrew the fitting by hand. You only want to remove it far enough for coolant to flow, it you unscrew it right out the whole fitting and direction pipe will come off and you will get a coolant bath (yum!). Undo the radiator reservoir cap and it should empty about 8l
    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You also need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator so you will need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. 2 other tools that really help dealing with coolant lines and spring clamps are Bent Needle Nose pliers Hose pliers Between them they will reduce the frustration (and injury) potential by about 1000% Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
×
×
  • Create New...