Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

6x9 don't fit in the front, despite all my effors. Put 6.5" in front on mine. Mange to fit 7x10 in the back on mdf, with out modifiying the parcel tray. It just clears the window.

Yeah make all your mounts on MDF, cus it won work other wise. Well depends how much metal u might want to cut in some instances.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

I've just tried to fit 6.5" speakers to the front doors of my R32 and they won't fit behind the factory grille.

Are there any tricks I might have overlooked?

They are 62mm deep plus they need 14mm clearance in front to clear the suuound, 76mm total depth. There is 68mm between the window mechanism and the top edge of the factory grille so they are 8mm too big.

How deep are the 6.5" speakers that people on here have fitted successfully?

How are you mounting the speeaker? Are you just mounting thwem to the metal door? I would suggest using 18mm mdf as a backing board then putting the speaaker onto that. Dont worry about putting the speakers speaker grill on it.. not needed when it is being proteected by the door grill. Give that a try, you will find it will work. Heck, if i can fit a 4inch and a 5.25 inch in a 4inch speaker fitment, anything can be done.

Quote mtopxsecret6

"How are you mounting the speeaker? Are you just mounting thwem to the metal door? I would suggest using 18mm mdf as a backing board then putting the speaaker onto that. Dont worry about putting the speakers speaker grill on it.. not needed when it is being proteected by the door grill. Give that a try, you will find it will work. Heck, if i can fit a 4inch and a 5.25 inch in a 4inch speaker fitment, anything can be done."

Thanks for your reply.

I made a baffle and mounting ring to fiberglass at the correct angle with the speaker magnet as far back as possible but when I checked the clearances by refitting the door trim the top edge of the factory grille touched the speaker surround which needs 8mm of clearance during operation. The space is physically 8mm too small for this speaker to fity behind the factory grille.

Quote Fhrx

"The R32 skyline will happily take 6" speakers in the front doors."

Not my 160GTs but then they're 6.5s" I don't regret my choice of driver. I'll make it fit. Then again if I have to make a custom buildout I may as well fit my MW170s.

I just wanted to know how other people have approached this job in the R32s.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Join the NorCal facebook group btw, but if you can confirm it is HICAS I would install a lock bar and do the work to keep the HICAS control unit happy despite the hardware not functioning. The HICAS control unit is also responsible for speed sensitive power steering so if it's unhappy you'll get failsafe/heavy power steering. A standalone can control that power steering solenoid valve but sometimes it's just easier to stick with the factory setup. Tomei makes a little electronic module that you can install to fool the control unit. I would probably go through the effort to not use a scotch-lok and build a harness so I don't have to chop up the OEM harness. Where you could source those connectors and pins I wouldn't know at the moment though.
    • Oh, another question comes to mind though. What sort of shitty fuel are you feeding it. Mine, a turbo, has to be fed 98RON, so it doesn't ping itself to death. 98 in Oz is good, dense fuel with minimal oxygenated compounds. Meaning that the energy density is high, and if the O2 trim is working, you will get more MPG than with a lesser fuel. If you're using some sort of piss poor E10 blend with some other MBTE or other oxygenated additions, that could explain using more per mile.
    • I have no idea where the thump is coming from, it sounds like its from behind me but im not exactly sure. And it was the HICAS light that came on.   I think a complete delete is the route im going to go. Probably going to pick up the kit within the next month and get it installed. HICAS is just going to end up being a headache if I keep it.    Thanks you. 
    • Just putting this here for reference for other beginners. Similar to what I said above.  I learnt if you have a few dents that are fairly close to each other (within a couple of inches maybe 2-4 inches?) Use filler across them all and sand it all at once with the long block as opposed to fixing them seperately.  Will make life MUCH easier because you won't get stuck in the cycle that I did. I think doing it seperately there is some overlap (mean your whole repair zone might cover near the area of the other dent) and you start sanding near the other dent making a low spot.
×
×
  • Create New...