Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After only a month of ownership, I am seriously considering selling the NA6 I recently bought.

The car:

- 1990 (June) Crystal White

- 192,XXXkms (Timing belt was replaced at 140,000kms)

- A/C (regassed with new refrigerant)

- Pioneer CD/MP3 player with AUX input

- Paint in great condition with no fade (small dent on boot lid)

- Soft-top is in excellent condition with no rips or holes. Rear window is in good condition but has started to yellow a bit at the top

- Fastidiously washed and detailed. Well maintained and regularly serviced

- registration until 29 December 2010

- Receipts from myself and previous owner are available

Modifications:

- Garage Vary front lip in black

- Cusco offset front number plate holder (MX-516 plates included in sale)

- Genuine Watanabe wheels painted black. 14x6.5 +20 (Potenza's with good tread)

- Heavy duty clutch

- Koni adjustable shock absorbers with king springs (adjustment knob included)

- Mania under body bracing front & rear

- Leather seats*, carpet, shifter boot, and soft top cover from 10th Anniversary Edition NB (blue/black colour scheme)

- NB wind blocker with storage pocket

- factory electric windows converted to manual winders

- Replacement Ashtray, Phone/Ipod Holder (ashtray will also be included)

*some wear on the driver side

Images:

01.jpg

02.jpg

04.jpg

10.jpg

interior.jpg

stereo.jpg

Note: The Brown Davis rollbar that can be seen in some of the images was removed before I bought the car. Most of the images above are from the original ad.

Reason for sale: I am getting married in June and will have a mountain of bills to pay then. Hanging onto this car will limit our ability to have a honeymoon straight after our wedding - which is a higher priority to me than owning a fun weekend car. I'm sure some of you will understand my position.

I love owning and driving this car. It's in great condition and words can't describe the thrills that it provides. It honestly handles like it's on rails.

The previous owner of this car owned it for 7 years and to say that he did a fantastic job of keeping the car immaculate would be an understatement.

Since taking ownership of the car I have:

- Replaced the problematic electric windows with manual windows (all electric parts will come with the car)

- Replaced 20 year old stock speakers with new Pioneer items

- replaced CD player with Pioneer CD/MP3 player with AUX input

- added a phone/iPod holder which replaces the stared ashtray

The car has been driven approximately 15 times and less than 1,000kms since I bought it. The rest of the time it has been sitting in my garage.

Price and contact information:

I'm asking $8,500 which includes all of the modifications as listed above. The car is registered to 29 December 2010 (10 months). The price is slightly higher than what I paid for it, I am simply looking to recoup the money that I have spent on the car.

- The car is currently garaged and is available for inspection in Summer Hill (outside of work hours).

- You can contact me via PM or onyou are interested and would like more information about the car.

Thanks,

Paul

To stop people asking via PM - I am not interested in swaps and I won't be tempted by lowball offers.

Edited by R31Nismoid

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...