Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item: Wolf 3D V4 (V400) with Hand Controller

Condition: good condition, no scratches on computer, slight mark on No3 button on controller(really nothing)

Price: $800

To Fit: R33 GTS-T and R32 GTS-T

Location: Rankin Park (newcastle), NSW

I am selling a wolf 3D v4 rev 7. This is a plug in and play unit with hand contrller and cable and software for laptop. It is stickered Nissan R33 and as wanted it for my Rb20 I contacted wolf and was told it does both. tuned on the rb 20 on it with 520 injectors and gt35 turbo (yeah was ridiculously laggy hence whole new set up)

Some details on the Wolf unit (collected from other posts):

The Wolf 3D Version 4 is fully 3D tunable for both fuel and ignition timing!

These ECU's are an excellent unit with incredible tuning resolution, both ignition and fuel can be adjusted every 125rpm with 16 different load bands. This compares very well compared to Microtech that can only be changed every 500rpm with less load points. Having such a fine tuning resolution is perfect for getting the most out of your modified engine.

No need for a Z32 AFM with this ECU, simply remove your AFM all together.

Overall this ECU provides sharp, crisp throttle response whilst still maintaining factory drivability e.g smooth idle, fuel economy, cold start etc, something impossible with many of the competitors ECUs.

Some of the benefits of fitting a Wolf 3D V4:

Make the most out of your modifications

Excellent drivability, Wolf 3D V4 features full cold start and air temperature adjustments

Easily retuned if you change a modification

Crisp and smooth idle

Excellent fuel economy

Ability to remove AFM. ECU is MAP sensor based so no need for a Z32 or the airflow restriction a AFM causes

Boost controller can operate with factory solenoid

Can run multiple Maps with live map switching while the engine is running(Power Map, Economy Map, or Low Octane fuel)

Excellent fuel economy

Specs:

Tune from PC Software

Maximum Engine Speed 20,000RPM

Fuel Map every 125RPM to 16,000RPM

Fuel Map has 16 Load Bands

Ignition Map every 125RPM to 16,000RPM

Ignition Map has 16 Load Bands

Idle Speed Control with Water Temperature Compensation

Sequential Fuel Injection

(these details were pinched from a thread by skysaresilver)

Will try and post pics this afternoon.

Can post goods are buyers expense.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/312681-wolf-3d-version-4/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...