Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I thought the only rule was, that if your steering wheel had an airbag standard, then if you changed it to an aftermarket steering wheel that would have to have an airbag as well.

It would make sense for the steering wheel to be padded too, but I'm not sure on that law. Think of it this way, do you want to be driving around the streets with a wooden or metal steering kinda wheel? I wouldn't.

I know how you feel though, the s1 steering wheel is ugly... I'm assuming thats why you want to change it?

i have a after market on atm but its not legal because the owner before me put a stupid shape one on.

and the series 1 steering wheel kinda makes me want to vomit.

plus i'm fed up with defects, i dont want to have to deal with it anymore.

thanks for you help tho dude,

any other suggestions people?

Edited by DarkRB

i've had an aftermarket one on for almost 6 years, but recently learned it was illegal. with the strict police in victoria i've been doing my best to make my car legal in the past few months. i had my original steering wheel that was still in the garage upholstered with new leather to match the colors of my door trims and seats, and the middle padded non airbag series 1 horn section i took to Daniel Power powerstudios.com.au to have airbrushed to match it all together with the dash and car too..

it's going to look great, but i dont have it back yet. when i do i'll post a pic. it's relatively cheap if you compare it to aftermarket wheels, plus boss kits etc, works out similar. the leather before i dropped it off to daniel looked amazing! that's probably the best suggestion i have for ya, cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
    • Shimmed or shimless, still solid, no hydraulic pump up stuff.
    • They have said food will be limited. Mainly meat pies and sausage rolls from memory. But they have a coffee van!
×
×
  • Create New...